James Cossins in 1882

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This Version Copyright © 2012 by David Cornforth

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The Second Edition was First Published in Exeter in 1878

Updated from the First Edition in 1877

The List of Mayors, Recorders, Sheriffs and details of the Town Councillors etc

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Mayor Choosing Fifty Years Ago

The election of Mayors for the city of Exeter, under the old Chamber, was about Michaelmas; the Mayors were nominated by the body, the freemen being nominally the electors. I never remember any opposition.

On the day of election, the members of the body and freemen assembled in the Guildhall; the intended Mayor was proposed, with the other officials; after taking the oath and duly signing the documents, on the cheering subsiding, the Hall echoed the sound of various drawings of bottled wine corks, the liquor being freely passed around the table, the nearest outsiders also having the privilege of tasting, or an old familiar face in the back ground would have a glass sent to him. A procession was then formed to perambulate the city walls, headed by the tradesmen's corps of constables, about twenty-four in number; then the staff and mace-bearers, sword-bearer, the Mayor-elect walking uncovered, with his hat in hand; Aldermen, with scarlet robes and three-cornered hats, followed by members and officials; in the rear being three tradesmen's sons, named Mayor's stewards, (the outside one called gutter steward), wearing long black robes, with tufts and three-cornered hats, who had the privilege of dining at the Mayor's banquets. Some of the electors and inhabitants would accompany the procession, and give vent to their feelings by an occasional cheer.

The route was from the Guildhall, up High street, right hand path to the Mayor's Chapel, St. John's Hospital; thence on the walls down Southernhay, crossing the road to the steps by the side of the Theatre; thence to Trinity Church, again crossing the road to the walls at the shop now occupied by Mr. Acland, bookbinder; then through Mr. Hirtzel's (wine merchant) garden, now Mr. Dicker's, organ builder, to Water gate, Quay hill, where a man was waiting with two large baskets of apples, which were thrown about for a general scramble. This amusement over, they proceeded through West gate and Bartholomew street to Snail tower and Bartholomew yard, where two more baskets of apples were distributed as before. From thence across North street up to S. Mortimore, Esq.'s, where wine was waiting their arrival. On leaving they crossed over Maddox row (this is the only arch remaining on the town walls) to Rougemont Castle, thence to Castle street, making their exit at East gate, from behind the premises now occupied by Mr. Mark Rowe. The ceremony wound up in the evening with the good old English custom of dinner.

P. C. de la Garde, Esq., was the last Mayor of the old Chamber. The only survivors of the body are Dr. Shapter, C. Turner, J. Were, and T. G. Norris, Esqrs.; officials J. Gully, late governor of the City Prison, and T. Foweraker, now sword bearer. On gala-days the various trade guilds preceded the Corporation, with their various banners, flags, &c.

I witnessed the last time of their going to the Cathedral on a Sunday; also the first under the present Municipal Act, S. Kingdon, Esq., being the first Mayor. From 1836 to the present time there have been thirty-seven Mayors, of whom twenty-one are now living. Out of the first elected councillors for 1835 and 1836, and aldermen, magistrates, and officials, numbering about eighty, there are only four surviving, namely, J. Clench, T. Drake, J. H. Terrell, and H. D. Barton, Esqs.; the latter was elected magistrates' clerk in 1836.

About 1830 I believe there were about 400 freemen on the list; in January, 1835, the numbers polled at the city election were Follett 194, Buller 144, Divett 103. In 1845 there were about 350, of whom 270 voted 215 for Sir J. Duckworth, and 55 for General Briggs. In 1864, 187 voted Courtenay 130, Coleridge 54 Now there are about 160 on the list.

Beating the Boundaries

The Exeter Corporation were accustomed to beat the boundaries two days previous to the parishes, on the Tuesday before Ascension Day, accompanied by the Mayor, Chamber, and blue boys of St. John's Hospital, this being a red letter day for the juveniles of the above school. Mr. Pickett, schoolmaster, said it was the most restless night of the year, the boys anxiously waiting for daylight.

About five o'clock they left the school-house, accompanied by a "Captain" (Mr. Webber, tailor, St. Sidwell's, whose son, acting in the same capacity, went round this week), carrying a pole bedecked with flowers, and proceeded to the then Mayor's residence, and gave him a hearty cheering. From thence they went to the Guildhall to meet any parties wishing to go the rounds, the route being through South street to Larkbeare, and thence across to the upper part of the Quay adjoining Counsellor White's house, where a boat was awaiting their arrival. By the side of this house was an arched sewer, which one of the boys went through. The boat then left, skirting the walls of the Quay. On passing the ships the occupants of the boats were drenched with buckets of water. In those days as many as twenty to thirty vessels were usually to be seen at the Quay. The boat was then steered to the point, now Messrs. Gabriel's timber yard: awaiting the arrival were a number of men, who either upset the boat or took the occupants and dipped them under water. After proceeding up the field to Exe Bridge, the party divided, one portion going the Exwick side of the river, the other going through the Bonhay on that side, meeting at Cowley Bridge, where they breakfasted. Weather permitting, the elder boys would swim across the river. The first to return with a leaf in his mouth had a shilling given him. They then proceeded up the hill to Marypole Head on their way home. Having put on their beet clothes, each boy had a blue rosette attached to his coat, and they went through the High street, with their captain, to the Market House Inn, where a substantial dinner was provided at the Market by Mr. Tapper.

The parochial bounds were beaten on Ascension Day by parishioners, accompanied by the clergymen, wardens, &c., who afterwards dined together at one of the hotels or inns in the parish. On this day it was considered lawful to throw water over any parties passing, and in many streets a pond would be made, and unless some pence were thrown in, the boys would splash the water over passers-by, and such dread was there of these customs that parties in the country would not come into the city on that day, unless necessity compelled. In the evening boys would assemble outside the houses where the parishioners were dining, and pence would be thrown out of the window for a scramble. Sometimes the coppers underwent the process of heating.

About a fortnight previous to this day the boys would meet in the evening, armed with sticks, to uphold the honour of their parish, which was called 'parish fighting.' The most formidable meet was on Northernhay, between St. David's and St. Sidwell's, the boundary being the posts, which were in a line with the entrance to Mr. Carr's. The posts were put there to prevent carriages going over Northernhay. The contention was so great for the honour of the respective parishes that it often resulted in broken heads. The contention between Trinity boys versus St. Mary Major's was also noted. If, by chance, any of the different parishes met in their perambulations, there was a desperate struggle to disarm each other; but the great event was to wait in the New London Inn Square, as the parishes of St. David's and St. Sidwell's generally finished the rounds at the same time at this point. Then commenced, not a sham fight, but an earnest one, many of the combatants being young men. The parishioners at times were obliged to interfere, there being no police force then.

It was the custom, in the different parishes, to provide white rods for the juveniles. In the parish of St. Stephen's, being a small one, the sextoness took the rods to the different houses, and with them a piece of red tape to attach to the top; also, on Ascension Day, hot rolls for breakfast to all ratepayers, according to the number of the family; a large roll about 1 8 inches in length, was made for the clerk and one for the sexton. The parishioners dined at the Half Moon, and it was considered the most convivial gathering in the city. Between thirty and forty sat round the festive board. The wardens sent an invitation card to gentlemen residing in the precinct of Bedford. A dinner was provided at the same place for clerk, sexton, sextoness, and bellows-blower.

Interesting Reminiscences of Exeter

Half a century has made wonderful changes in this city. Those of our readers whose memory will carry them back to the old gates will, doubtless, peruse the following reminiscences with much interest, as they will also, we feel, prove equally interesting to those of our fellow citizens who cannot recollect the time when ninety coaches passed through the city daily. It will be seen that there are but few of the old firms in existence now.

Subscriptions Rooms opened with a musical festival, 17 October, 1820; site originally used for horsemanships and exhibitions.

London Inn Square, J. Clench, New London Inn (daily average of coaches ninety): J. Pratt, Old London Inn (present Bude Haven): England, butcher: Thompson, Bristol Inn: Discombe, grocer: Pippett, hosier: Darke, butcher: Smale, White Horse Inn (the bar of which projected as far as the present kerb with steps for mounting horses, and entrance to court yard behind).

High Street, Franklin, coach builder: Cole and Gendall; carvers and gilders: Nicholls, hair dresser: Rickard, watchmaker: Hill, spirit merchant: Lake, jeweller: Roberts, confectioner: Abraham, optician: Spreat, bookseller: Spratt, Tinman: Damerel, ironmonger: Pratt, chemist: Jewell, watchmaker: Hunt, eating house Porch entrance to Newcombe's, cooper: Tucker, fruiterer: Hall, tailor: Taylor, cabinet maker; corner of Castle street, public house: Lang, tinman: Toms, umbrella maker: Glenn, shoemaker: Gandy, bootmaker: Andrews, eating house: Gooch, baker: Lott, Apothecaries' Hall: Upham, bookseller: Hennis, physician (killed in a duel on Haldon): Cole, ironmonger: Sercombe, baby linen warehouse: Pilbrow, music shop: Tucker, grocer and draper: Seward, laceman: Piper, perfumer: Lewis, West of England Insurance Office; Holwell, draper: Woolmer, Gazette Office: Godfrey, grocer: Hornsey (King's-alley), brushmaker: Johns, shoemaker: White, (King-Lodge), ladies' school: Medland, haberdasher: Truman and Llewellyn, drapers: Shapter, Dr., physician: Wippell, ironmonger: Newcombe, glover: Collins, Dr., physician: Pye, tobacconist: Nation, Humphreys, and Pye, warehousemen.

Gandy Street, Iron gates, open court, wide stone steps to Mayor's banqueting room, now part of the Civet Cat, Mr. Grant: Mayoralty Eoom opposite Mr. Harris: Granger and Sanders, wine merchants: Luscombe, surgeon: Flindell, Luminary office: Hall of Corporate Tailors.

High Street, Eardley, china shop: George, hatter: Trewman, printer: Laskey, hosiery: Coldridge, ironmonger: Chanter, passage, greengrocer: Wilkinson, grocer: Strong, Swan passage, fruiterer: entrance to fish, potatoe, and oat markets and Swan tavern: Snell, milliner: Arden, draper: entrance to excise office: Treadwin, bookseller: Wilcocks, woollen draper: Larkworthy, comb maker: Pickard, hatter: Dyer, chemist: Newton, druggist: Sandford, cabinet maker: Copp, draper: Lee, Savings' Bank: Gard, ironmonger: Guildhall (front rebuilt 1593): Bartrum, tobacconist: Richards, Turk's Head: Risdon, bookseller: Hart, hop and spirit merchant Ellis, silversmith: Wakley, china shop: Hedgeland, bookseller: Hill, druggist: Harker, saddler: Chave, clothier: Braund, draper: Floud, West of England Bank: Walker and Trist, woollen drapers: Kingdon, S. and W., ironmongers: Holman and Ham, druggists. West of England Office, established 1807: North street widened 1821: Father Peter, originally about six feet from the ground, placed in its present position when the street was widened.

Returning to East Gate, Collyns, D.D., Grammar School: Pickett, Blue Boys' ditto, entrance to Cloth Mart Buildings, front room, upstairs, Grammar School, ground floor: P. Roberts, broker: Ware, boot and shoe maker: Bustard, fruiterer: Parker, glazier: Mullings, entrance school: Cook, saddler: Tucker, naturalist: Johnson, optician: Du Chemin, carver and gilder: Jeffery, Three Tuns: Toms, confectioner: Lake, Post Office Inn: passage leading to Bedford street: Bates, perfumer: Hannah Pink, toyshop: Halsey, draper: Ridge, tailor: Curson. bookseller: Toswill, carver and gilder: Wood, shoemaker: Skinner, watchmaker: Townsend, confectioner: Medland, Half Moon: Darke, butcher: Kingdon, fringe maker: Carter, entrance judge's lodgings: Tonar, Irish linen warehouse: Higgs, tailor: Tanner, chemist: Moxey, Stephen's bow: Strong, harness maker: Bishop's Barony House: Vicker's, confectioner: Trehane, silversmith: Woodman, trunkmaker: Jessie, toyshop: Woolcott, shoemaker: Colson, draper: Luke, grocer: Ocock, confectioner: Lott, hatter: Adams, jeweller: Martin's Gate removed 1820: Drew, draper: Gould, grocer: Maunder, shoemaker: Maunder, wine merchant: Sharland, grocer: Davies and Phillpotts, tea warehouse: Mayne, straw bonnet shop: Butland, haberdasher: Beedle, chemist: Gollop, ironmonger: Veysey, hatter: Sanders, entrance, warehousemen: Veysey, hosier: Phillips, glover: Hedgeland, bookseller: Tory, draper: Dunsford, cutler: Dyer, bookseller: Dinneford, haberdasher: Pitman, draper: Paul, grocer and cork cutter: Upham, hatter: Clark, milliner: Broadgate, removed 28th December, 1824, re-opened 28th February, 1825, during the time the "Defiance" and other coaches passed through Martin's lane: Cox, seedsman: Lee, chemist: Straight, milliner: St. Petrock's Church reopened after being nearly rebuilt, loth November, 1829: Boucher, spirit merchant: Rich, grocer: passage to Western Times Office: Kingdon, draper: South street widened 1830.

Fore Street, Knight, hosier, stairs leading to haberdasher's room: Cross, now Lloyd, tobacconist, opposite middle of street was a conduit: Westron, wine merchant: Pitts, chemist: Mortimer, cork-cutter: Dewdney, grocer: Kerslake, tinman: Dinham, grocer and jeweller. (Milk Street, Butchers. Branscombe, butcher.) Passmore, draper: Tosswill and Holsgrove, grocers: Quicke, butchers: Quicke, saddler. (Entrance to meat, corn, and leather markets.) Balle, bookseller: Lowrey, straw hat shop: Mack, stationer: Tapp, Plough Inn, lane leading to Butcher-row: Luke, now Pearse, ironmonger: Taylor, frame-maker: Warren and Landrey, booksellers: Street, baker: Evans, druggist: Lang, clothes shop: Matthews, druggist: Ferris, tinman: Wilcocks, draper: Townsend, fishhook-maker: Gay, glover: Sailer, Star Hotel. (John's bow entrance.) Smallridge, china shop: Buckland, baker: clothes shop: Paul, broker: Marks, silversmith. (Open space, now Stephens.) Lendon, cheese-dealer: Pellew, broker: ' Strong, clothes' dealer: Avent, shoemaker: Ware, butcher: Devonport Inn: Hake, draper: Gitsham, grocer: Welsman, cheeseman: Ezekiel, Jewish Rabbi: Lothian, Scotland House, drapers. (Pump in street opposite above.)

Bridge Street, Pates, tailor: Bull, glassblower: Street, druggist: Paul, broker: Pyne, babylinen: Williams, barber: Page, spirit dealer: Stone, bookseller: Marks, brushmaker: Dale, hairdresser: Pinkstone, grocer: Hemmens, Bound Tree Mills: Worthy, factory: Pinhey, brewer: Dymond, seed shop: Dymond, draper: White, Pinhey, and Daw, City Brewery.

Fore Street, (Eight-hand side). Norcombe, woollen draper: Penny, bookseller: Clapp, ironmonger: Newman, grocer: Hutchings draper: Kingdon, cabinet maker: Ezekiel, optician, &c.: Wilcocks, draper: Wippell, grocer: Phillips, druggist: Buckland, draper: Pearse, draper: Coldridge, ironmonger. (Entrance to Mary Arches street.) Parsons, grocer: Bowditch, grocer: Ferris, silversmith: Cottrell, lastmaker: Burnett, plumber: Tuckett, chandler: Richards, cabinet maker: Holmes, Oat Sheaf Inn: Broom, watchmaker: Cockram, pottery ware: Escott, saddler: Penn, druggist: (Entrance to Mint lane.) Stabback, surgeon: Kingdon, surgeon: Ford, confectioner: Godfrey, spirit merchant. (Entrance to Friernhay street.) King Alfred Inn: Radcliffe, baker: Toms, chairmaker: Huxtable, builder: Weeks, currier: Marwood, broker: Burt, curiosity shop: Blackmore, merchant, formerly town house of Sir John Duntze: Hitchcock, grocer: Gray, railway pioneer: Gove, Tucker's Hall, school: Cornish, builder: Cross, cabinet maker: Limpenny, umbrella maker: Tucker, miller: Barker, chemist: Stoneman, private house: (Entrance to Bartholomew street, W.)

Bridge Street, Westlake, grocer: Woosley, shoemaker: Eames, stonemason: Buxton, currier: Goodridge, fringe shop: Harris, milliner: Osborn, fishing-rod-maker: Ballman, shoemaker: Odam, hairdresser: Nicholls, broker: Worthy, fuller: Curtis, watchmaker: Crockett, wine merchant: Exe Bridge built 1776.

(With the exception of Mr. G. Wippell, ironmonger, 231, High street, the writer has witnessed a change of firms in the whole of the above, there are a few instances of sons succeeding their fathers).

Exeter Markets Fifty Years Since

Previous to the present markets being built the markets were held in the High and Fore streets on Tuesdays and Fridays, the latter being the largest: six months on alternate sides of the street. Commencing at East gate with china and stone ware, glass and Honiton pottery, &c., to King's alley; then butter, poultry and dairy farm product to Goldsmith street. On great market days, the last Friday in the month, this last produce was so great that there was a double row, leaving scarcely room for carriages and carts to pass each other. The grocers' shops in the neighbourhood were depositories for the country people's baskets: piles of from twenty to thirty might be seen, and for this accommodation they purchase what goods they require.

On a wet day it was a pitiful sight to see the parties standing in the wet, sometimes the water running over their shoes, but most of them were provided with pattens. I have seen during a storm the baskets floating in the street. It was also a difficult thing to keep the head and shoulders dry, the umbrellas were so numerous that they dripped from one to the other, and the path was almost impassable, it being like a moving forest of umbrellas, and many panes of glass were broken by them. The lower squares of glass were protected from the baskets and passers on Fridays by wire, iron, or brass frames. The only three of the latter now remaining are at Mr. Delves, chemist, corner of North street; at Mr. Ruston, chemist, on the opposite side; and Wilcocks and Westron, tea merchants, 104, Fore street.

Tradesmen's wives and house-keepers in those days would take with them their servant, a respectably dressed woman, with a real bonnet, cotton dress, and white apron without either parasol or veil, and carrying two large baskets, it not being the custom to send purchases home then.

From Goldsmith street to Broad gate was the pork butchers' shambles with no covering over them; at the centre arch of the Guildhall were the public scales for weighing (provided by the Chamber) under the superintendence of one of the staff-bearers. The crook for their suspension is still in the arch. The part now occupied by the superintendent and police officers was an open space for the reception of various goods, also the stocks which were used as a punishment for drunkards, instead of sending them to prison; the punishment was to sit in them one hour in front of the Guildhall.

From Broadgate to North street, poultry, butter, &c. Thence to Mary Arches street vegetables, fruit, flowers, &c.; thence to the Mint standings of leather goods, toys, tin goods, &c.; thence to middle of Fore street with boots and shoes, china ware, &c.

The butchers' meat market was on the site of the present entrance to the lower market, also the seed and wheat market, the latter being retailed by farmers to the public. Many families preferred making their own bread, and would take the wheat to the millers in the lower part of the city, and await their turn to have it ground, having to pay a few pence, and also a small quantity of flour deducted for waste At home the meal was put into a sieve, the long brush put on the table, and by moving it to and fro the coarse bran was separated from the flour; the latter was made into dough by water being added with a portion of yeast, and for the purpose of making it rise or ''plum," they would put it in the bed, covering it over with blankets, then take it to the bakers, knead it, put it into various shaped tins, for loaves and cakes, and for the purpose of recognizing their own, the top of the dough would be punctured with a fork with their initials or a design.

The leather market was held in the lofts over the butchers', and for skins in the market. The serge makers in St. Mary Major's yard, opposite the Globe Hotel. A vegetable market was held every day in the week, from North street to about Market street.

The fish, potato, and oat market, now Queen street, had an entrance from Fore street for the people through a wide passage, between two posts, just adjoining Mr. Wippell’s. Behind his house was the oat market, under a shed; adjoining was a public pump, then the fish houses—or inclosed sheds, there being no dwellings attached—with stalls in front, extending from about Mr. Broom’s, chemist, to Mr. Quick’s; then a shed across to the kerb in front of the Queen’s Hotel. Behind this to Paul street were gardens and court-yards. On the site of Messrs Scantlebury and Tapp, and Mr. Stancombe’s, another shed for potatoes. Then the malt and brew house of the celebrated Swan Tavern, which extended to about Mr. Brown’s, and over which was a large room, supported by four very large wooden pillars, extended to about halfway across Queen street. This room was used for sales, panoramas, and fancy fairs, &e., the entrance was from High street through Miss Strong‘s passage now the path adjoining Mr. Stiles. The above tavern was noted for good home-brewed beer. It was a great resort at lunch time for the tradesmen, who enjoyed their glass, with cakes, oysters, or cockles; also a nightly resort to enjoy a pipe and song. In this room, called the snuggery, was an old oak chair, elevated about two feet from the ground; on the upper rim was painted and gilded the words “God save the King.” After the chairman had formally taken his seat, any party on entering the room and not taking his hat off, was politely told if he did not, his company would not be agreeable. The entrance to the market for carts was through Gandy street, and Little Queen street, enclosed by high wooden gates; a fire engine was kept in the pathway in front of what is now the entrance to the Queen’s Hotel. The present ofiice of the Flying Post was an open space.

Before the improvements which the introduction of railways effected, housekeepers might purchase a couple of fowls at from 2s. 3d. to 2s. 9d.; ducks, 3s. 6d. to 4s. 6d.; a goose; 4s. 3d. to 5s. 6d.; beef, 6d.; mutton, 4d.; choice legs of pork, 5d.; butter, 7d. (dearest time 10d.) per lb.; eggs, 22 to 30 a shilling. Fish, equally moderate, hake from 4d. to 6d. (now 1s. 6d. to 1s. 9d.); potatoes, 5d. per peck, heap measure. The Imperial Weight and Measure Act came into operation January 1st, 1826, and there was much discontent among the people about it, especially respecting potatoes, buyers thinking they would not have so many, and sellers having to buy scales and weights. I went into the market the first time to witness the effect. The women would not buy them that way, and threw the scales and weights aside. The sellers to prevent a row sold as before, with the understanding that in future they must purchase by weight. The following market day some Staff-bearers being present prevented any disturbance, and in two or three weeks all was amicably settled. Potatoes were also sold by the bag, containing about eight score for 3s., and of such a quality as is rarely to be met with now. The favourite kind was the Moreton "red roughs," and well might they be said to be like balls of flour, for when properly cooked it was difficult to prevent them, on inserting a fork to take off their jackets, from falling to pieces.

Salt at this period, was considered the dearest commodity for housekeepers, butchers, &c., it being 4½d. per lb. The revenue derived from it was about six millions. The duty was taken off during the premiership of the Earl of Liverpool. One of the largest retailers of it was Mr. Cross (premises now occupied by Messrs. Lloyd, tobacconists) who devoted one side of the shop for its sale, the other for snuff and tobacco.

Having given a description of the market held in the streets, I will now give an idea of the extra influx of visitors, carriers, &c., on that day. The county families would come for the purpose of shopping, also to meet their friends, and probably there were at least in proportion fifty carriages, vehicles, &c., to five now; also of carriers from the various towns and villages, fifty then to one now. It was a lively scene, on any road entering the city, to see the various traps and their occupants coming to the market. The most frequented were the Cowley bridge road, coming from the neighbourhood and the north of Devon. It was supposed that about 3,000 persons came through the Red Cow turnpike gate, either riding or walking, on that day. This being the only entrance from that part, St. David's hill and North street had their good quota of business. At that time they had not the advantage of the Iron Bridge (erected 1834) but were obliged to descend the steep hill, and ascend North street, before getting into the city. Parties coming from Stoke, Hew, Tiverton, &c., came over Marypole Head. The road adjoining Cowley bridge, not being cut until 1829. Previous to Marypole Head road being cut, which was in 1814, Stoke hill was the entrance from the above-named places. The New London Inn had the greatest number of carriages, &c. I have seen the yards full, and many in Longbrook street in front of the stables. The Old London Inn (now Bude Haven), Clarence Hotel, and the Half Moon also having a goodly number, each having yards in the neighbourhood for horses and carriages. The Clarence and Half Moon yards were on the site of the Savings' Bank and Bedford Chapel.

The principal yards for carriers were the Black Lions', Mermaid, Dolphin, White Hart, Plume of Feathers, Barnstaple Inn, Crown and Sceptre, Bull Inn, and many others, in fact at all public houses, where there was accommodation the yard and stables would be filled with horses and vehicles of every description. The every-day carriers' yard was crowded. Sheds were rented for the purpose of receiving goods and parcels. The streets leading to many of these yards and inns were equally as bustling as other parts of the city, although now comparatively deserted.

The first market place for pork butchers was built on the site of the present fish market, between Gandy and Goldsmith street; the potatoe market held over, it was opened on September 28th, 1827. The materials were taken down on the present market being built, and purchased by the late James Wentworth Buller, Esq., of Downes, who had it erected at Crediton.

The Lower Market was designed by Mr. Fowler, architect, as a butchers' market, with the corn exchange in a large room over the entrance; the Higher one for fish, poultry, butter, vegetables, &c. The complaints were so numerous, from the inconvenience of purchasers having to go from one to the other, that the Market Committee were induced to remove the centre row of butchers' stalls from the Lower, and place them in the Higher Market. It is frequently remarked what a mistake in having two such buildings for the purpose; and as the present generation may not know the reason, I will endeavour to explain it. The authorities having decided to remove the markets from the streets, there arose the question as to the site. (At this time it was of great consideration to shopkeepers, the sellers being the wives and daughters of farmers, who bought what they might require in the vicinity of their standing, and who were hospitably treated, and in return tradesmen were welcomed at their country residences.) The tradesmen in High street wishing to have it in their neighbourhood; and those in Fore street in the lower part of the city. Every influence was used for each locality. After a long delay, the expenses being defrayed by subscriptions, and no chance of being unanimous, the committee proposed two separate buildings, which was adopted. The Lower one was opened on Friday, 9th December, 1836; the Higher one, July 24th, 1838. The Cattle Market which was more numerously attended, and the stock a greater number than now, was held in Bartholomew street. I have seen the cattle from the comer of North street to Friernhay street, thence pens of sheep to the Baptist Chapel, from thence to the bottom, near Fore street hill, and called Pig Market, but now Lower Bartholomew street, pigs lying in front of shops and dwelling houses. At this period a cow and calf could be purchased for about eight guineas, the finest, twelve.

Exeter Fairs in 1820 and 1873

On seeing one solitary stall in Fore street on 10th December, 1873, it brought to my recollection the busy scene on fair days fifty years ago. There were four held in the year; the standings being in the streets. Lent fair, generally held in March, was the smallest in the year, principally stands for comfits, dolls, toys, &c. Another about June, called Midsummer fair, the standings commencing at Eastgate and reaching to Castle street, containing crockery ware, glass, and ornaments, displayed on large crates; the coarser pottery, mostly from Honiton, being distributed on the ground. From Castle street to Musgrave's Alley, stalls, &c.; thence to the Guildhall, cloth stalls, the covering hanging half way over the path. These were supplied with materials made in the West of England and Yorkshire, many of the parties having a depot in buildings now the open space behind the Grammar School. From the Guildhall to Mary Arches street, standings, &c.; thence to about half way down Fore street hill, standings for tin goods, gloves, leather, boots, shoes, &c. The latter principally manufactured at Crediton. The lower part of the hill, standings with various goods. The streets of a dry evening were almost impassable. The next fair was about August, and called Lammas. This was the pleasure fair, commencing on the Tuesday, by a procession starting from Westgate, consisting of the head constable, with a roll of parchment (tied with blue ribbons), containing the Charter for holding the fair, which was read aloud by him at the site of the old gates; two staff bearers accompanied him, with their three-cornered hats, also two fifers and one drummer, followed by a man carrying a very long blue and white pole, surmounted by flowers and an immense stuffed white glove, and hundreds of children following. After the perambulation the glove was mounted on the highest part of the Guildhall, until the fair (which lasted three days) was over. The other fair was in December, when the fat cattle were sent in for the Christmas markets. The cattle fair was held in Bartholomew street, commencing at the Cemetery and extending as far as the Baptist Chapel, Bartholomew street. The serge fair was held in South street. A very large quantity of soap was sold at the Lammas fair at Eastgate, housekeepers providing themselves with a year's consumption. The leather fair was held over the old butchers' market. Once in the year Whetstone fair was held in Waterbeer street, which was closed by nine o'clock in the morning.

Shoe fair was held from London Inn square to Northernhay gate. The horse fair was on Southernhay, from Dix's field to the Barnfield. Menageries, shows, booths, &c., stood on the upper green, but were removed to the Bonhay and Exe Island, 13th August, 1823. The Bonhay had previously been used as a rackfield for drying serges, but the trade declining it was not required. The lower green on Southernhay was occasionally made use of. I remember seeing Wombwell's menagerie stationed just in front of the large trees opposite the Hospital, which, from their appearance, I should suppose were planted about the same time as those on Northernhay in 1612.

In addition to business at fairs in the streets, the wholesale houses did a large amount of trade, parties coming from all parts of the county. The warehouses were lit up about five o'clock in the morning, with candles in large candlesticks about two feet high; the stand being about the size of a desert plate, and large snuffers to match. The firm, of which I have some knowledge, Messrs. Nation, Humphreys, and Pye, 229, High street, have had as many as thirty to breakfast at seven o'clock, and sixty to dinner from one to two o'clock. The buyers having purchased all they required during the morning, the afternoon was devoted by them to the tea merchants, grocers, &c. During my apprenticeship, from various causes, the fairs gradually diminished, and at last we only had one party, who came from Hatherleigh. During the fairs all the warehousemen were provided with their meals, and a glass of grog after dinner and in the evening.

Assizes in Exeter About 1820

Two Assizes were held during the year, one in March, the other in July. It was then attended by the principal families from all parts of the county; the hotels were full, and the occupiers generally obliged to engage from twenty to thirty beds out of the house. Lodging-house-keepers were written to a month previous, in order to ensure apartments; in fact, scarcely a bed was to be had, many private house-keepers obliging the visitors during the week. I have known the Assize last ten days–and even then some cases, termed a remnant, put off till the following Assize. The largest I remember was about seventy-two causes entered, many having thirty to forty witnesses on each side; more important cases frequently about eighty witnesses. The average number of prisoners was from seventy to eighty, but I have known one instance of 107. The March Assizes were always the largest, as many more robberies were committed in the winter nights than in the summer.

The Judges' lodgings were at Mr. Carter's, High street (now Messrs. Green and Son's show room), which is considered the handsomest room in Exeter. The Sheriff engaged private lodgings, but had his ordinary at the New London Inn, where the county gentlemen dined with him. There was always a ball during the week, and many private parties.

About a fortnight previous to the Assizes there was a general cleaning and painting of the shops and the outside of the houses, and the newest things and goods obtained from London and other places. Extra gas burners were put on and show rooms lit up in the evening, the High street looked brilliant. The streets were thronged with people, and an immense amount of business done during the week. The theatre was opened and other attractive amusements provided. Shops that received the Sheriff's orders for the liveries and hats were visited to see the display, all being provided at the Sheriff's expense.

The javelin men and keepers at the doors at the Castle, about twenty-four in number, were generally the Sheriff's labourers, who worked on his estate. They were paid a guinea for the week, and the hat and suit of clothes at the termination of the yearly Assize given them. In the present day men for that duty are selected from the Devon Constabulary. On the day of commission the javelin men assembled at Mr. Cook's, saddler, High street (now Dameral), with their horses, to have their variegated saddle-cloths put on. They then left with the noted Captain Cook, in a very quaint dress, at their head, together with two trumpeters, to precede the Sheriff's carriage, which went to meet the Judges. Following the carriage were many of the tradesmen on horseback, and if the Sheriff resided in the neighbourhood the tenantry would also attend. I have seen nearly 200 present, and after the commission was broken they went to the various Inns, where dinner, &c., was provided for them at the expense of the Sheriff.

From Castle street to Heavitree, if the weather was fine, thousands of people were waiting to see the procession. The Judges were generally met about two miles out on the London road, where they were robed, and then entered the stage carriage of the Sheriff, his private carriage with four horses, containing the Judges' Marshall, going on to the city. Sergeant Wylde travelled the circuit in his own drag with four horses, his valet sitting behind, having pistols in fur skin cases on each side. The learned sergeant lodged at Mr. Rickard's, watch maker, East gate. A few of the barristers rode the circuit on horseback; and others clubbed together for their conveyance, it not being etiquette to go by ordinary coaches. No practising barrister was allowed to enter the Assize town previous to commission day. During the Assizes, Castle street was filled by a moving mass of people going to and fro. The Castle yard and City walls were promenades for the country visitors, Northernhay for the city people, and in the evening some hundreds of children may have been seen amusing themselves by running and sliding down the slopes. At times their noise was so great that the Judges ordered the attendants at the court to have it suppressed, as the witnesses could not be heard. The prisoners were taken back by an escort of four javelin men, chained together, and with heavy gyves suspended from the waist to the ancles. I have seen some scarcely able to walk from the weight. Those accused of murder were taken back heavily chained, by two javelin men and the warder. The gates through the fields were unhung to allow the prisoners to pass. On the Judges leaving the city on their way to Cornwall, Captain Cook, on horseback, dressed in a scarlet coat, cocked hat, and coloured breeches, would escort them through the city to St. John's Cross.

The only party living connected with the Assizes of former years is Mr. Pinney, the respected bandmaster of the Royal 1st Devon Yeomanry Cavalry, who has been trumpeter since the year 1828 up to the present time, with the exception of one year, when the Messrs. Shapcott were appointed by the late J. Sillifant, Esq.

P.S. I have been informed it was formerly the custom, should a jury not agree upon a verdict previous to the Judge leaving the city, to put them into a cart and convey them a little distance in the country, and then upset the cart, when the jury came to the unanimous opinion they had been very badly treated.

Coaching in Exeter Fifty Years Ago

New London Inn kept by Mr. Clench, who succeeded Mr. Land, 1816. Average mails and coaches about seventy daily–Sundays excepted. The mails all started from the "London." The London mail–one direct ("The Quicksilver,") which was said to be the fastest in England, doing the distance in twenty hours, arriving in Exeter about four o'Clock in the afternoon. Letters delivered about six; in winter, during fogs, letters not delivered until the following morning. The other mail via Dorchester. One hour allowed for sorting, then the Falmouth and Plymouth mails were dispatched. On the 23rd of August, 1836, the speed was increased, the distance being travelled in sixteen hours and a half. Several coaches also left the Old London Inn (Mr. Pratt's) now Bude Haven Hotel, one, the "Favorite" Subscription to London and Plymouth; also the fast coach, "Defiance," to London from the Clarence Hotel, with a team of four greys (which I have seen driven through St. Martin's lane); also the "Balloon" and "Traveller" coaches, thirty hours to London, licensed to carry six inside, and fourteen out, the fare being less–25s. outside, 35s in; other coaches, 35s., and £3 10s.; mails extra. To insure places parties booked the day before, with a deposit of half the fare. Gentlemen were so anxious for the box seat that porters were fee'd to retain it for them. Coaches also left the Half Moon, White Lion, White Horse, &c. It was computed that in the parish of St. Sidwell's alone 3,000 persons derived their maintenance in connection with the above occupations.

The Falmouth mails were of importance at that time, the foreign letters, &c., being landed and forwarded from that port. Should a packet arrive, and find the mails not leaving for London, the heavy bags were at once forwarded by chaise and four horses, and important Government despatches were forwarded by a messenger on horseback, having always a relay in each town he had to pass through. The contractor in Exeter was Mr. Mugford, Paul street, yard adjoining Mr. Jury's Museum Hotel, now Queen street, where man and horse were always ready by night and day, their destination being Honiton up and Crockernwell down. The New London Inn proprietor contracted for the posting–four horses always harnessed and two post boys waiting for any emergency. On the debate on the Sugar Duties in the Commons, 18–, the West India packet was delayed at Falmouth four days to take out the decision. The bags were forwarded and despatched from Exeter at the usual time. On Smith, the porter, going to lie down, (he slept in the outer office) he acquainted the clerk, Mr. Rickard, of the presence of a large portmanteau. On examination, it was found to be the despatches for the different foreign agents. The mail had left 4½ hours previously. A man was immediately despatched on horseback to have chaises and horses ready on the road to take the portmanteau, which arrived in Falmouth about half an hour after the packet left her moorings. A signal however was hoisted, answered and the packet put back, and took the important overlooked box on board. The heavy specie, consisting of dollars, &c., packed in very strong boxes, about one foot square, was sent from Falmouth to London by Russell's waggon, which took twelve days, a guard (Mr. Garry), armed, accompanying it. The boxes were placed at the bottom with other goods on the top.

When about nine years of age I rode from South street in one of the waggons. It left about eight o'Clock in the evening, arriving in Honiton at four o'clock, and was drawn by eight powerful horses, the driver riding a small pony. I remember the waggon stopping many times, and some small kegs being put in and taken out, which I heard afterwards contained spirits, &c., brought across the lanes by smugglers, whose horses had stockings over their shoes to deaden the sound.

Previous to railways many gentlemen would take a trip to London, Falmouth, Plymouth, &c., for the purpose of being allowed to drive a portion of the journey. On one occasion a Devonshire baronet took the reins of the Falmouth mail from the New London square; on turning Mr. Franklin's corner, the wheels not clearing the kerb, the coach was upset. Amongst the inside passengers was the inspector of mails; fortunately he was enabled to put his head out on the right side, but from that time no one was allowed to drive but the authorised coachman. Mr. T. Burch was also in the coach at the time of the upset, but was not much injured.

The Bath and Bristol coaches (via Tiverton) ran by the old Stoke road. The hill was so steep that the trustees allowed two extra horses to be put on without extra toll, a post being erected at the bottom of the hill and another at the top, with the words painted thereon, "put on," "take off." In 1814 the road was made over Marypole-head to avoid the steep hill; and in 1829 the road was cut from Cowley bridge to avoid the latter ascent. The same privilege was also allowed to the Falmouth coaches, &o., just above the Okehampton turnpike gate. The fish from Torquay, &c., for Bristol and Bath, was forwarded by coach, which left the London Inn every evening about six o' Clock, drawn by six horses as far as the mile stone–Marypole-head. Very few passengers travelled by it, owing to the high flavour of the contents.

Three or four days previous to Christmas Day, the various London coaches were loaded with hampers as presents, frequently four or five feet on the roof. On one occasion a coach, driven by Beavis, being top-heavy, overturned about midway between Exeter and Salisbury, when the coachman was killed on the spot. A subscription was started for his widow, between 800 and 900 being collected.

About twenty-six coaches passed through Heavitree daily. Presuming the present generation never saw a mail coach, I will endeavour to give an idea of it. The weight was about one ton, painted red, with royal coat of arms on panel of door. They were built to carry only four passengers in and four out, with a bag or box for their luggage, the roof being reserved for large mail bags. A round seat behind covered with a skin, and a pocket on each side for pistols for the guard. The smaller country bags were put in the boot under his seat, which was opened by a trap door. A long box in front of the guard held a blunderbuss, whilst there was another box or bag for the brass horn, which was about thirty inches long. When heavily laden two extra horses, with postillion, were attached to the mail. I have often heard the late Mr. Warren, attorney, speak of the journey to London, which took three days from Exeter. Four parties would take the inside of the coach, provide themselves with lamp and cards, and play whist nearly the whole way.

For Plymouth the coach would leave Exeter at six in the morning, stop at Chudleigh for the passengers to breakfast, when a cock fight would be witnessed; then on to Totnes to dinner, and another cock fight would follow; then start for Plymouth, arriving there about six in the evening. The return journey was similarly diversified. High street, in those days, was a busy scene, either carriages, post chaises, or coaches every few minutes having to pass through it, going east or west. In connection with the New London Inn, there were in the stables from 150 to 200 horses daily.

Previously to the road being cut under Northernhay, the stables and coach-houses extended from the London Inn back-door to Mr. Jones's, wine merchant: there were also stables the other side of Longbrook street, and on Fridays, if fine, and anything particular going on, they scarcely could find room for horses and carriages; also the same with other hotels and inns in the neighbourhood.

Parish of St. Stephen, High Street, Exeter

It may be interesting to many parties living in the above parish to read of some of the old residents in it fifty years since. The idea occurs to me, because the oldest tradesman in either High street or Fore street is now living in the same premises of the above parish, Mr. George Wippell, ironmonger, who succeeded Mr. Sparks in 1824, consequently this year is the jubilee of his commencing business, and also of his marriage. From my knowledge of him, having lived for thirty-seven years within two doors of his establishment, I can venture to say he was always willing to take his part in vestry or other matters for the welfare of the parish. In those days the parish was proverbial for its old and respectable tradesmen, also for old assistants in shops and domestic servants. Tradesmen then were more independent, not having such competition to contend with as now. I have known many, on receiving an order from the country, and not having the goods in stock, give it to his neighbour, desiring him to execute it. It was the custom in those days for several of the old parishioners, after their dinner, to meet at the Half Moon Hotel, to enjoy their glass of grog, and smoke Dutch cut tobacco in long clay pipes, returning to their homes about four o'clock to receive their London letters. The evening was spent in their family circle with either a game at cards or music.

The next oldest parishioner is Mr. George Curson, bookseller, &c., who was born in the parish, and succeeded his father. At that time his was the most frequented newsroom in the city.

I will now give the then occupants and the present: Mr. Curson, being the first in the parish: next Mr. Paul, grocer, now Mr. Drew, poulterer: Mr. Wood, shoemaker, now Mr. Browning, piano and music seller: Mr. Skinner, silversmith, now Mrs. Anley, confectioner, who was an assistant for many years with Mrs. Vickers in the same parish: Mr. Townsend, confectioner, now Mr. Hawkins: Half Moon, Mrs. Medland, now Mr. Gardner: Mr. Darke, butcher, late Gosden; Mr. Kingdon, fringe maker, late Heaven's: passage, Mr. Elias Carter, entrance to judge's lodgings, now occupied by Messrs. Green, and considered the handsomest room in the city: Mr. Tonar, Irish linen warehouse, and Mr. Hackett, lithographer, now Messrs. Green: Mr. Tanner, chemist, now Mr. Bulley: Mr. Strong, harness maker, now Mrs. Hill, furrier, formerly the Bishop of Exeter's Barony House: Mrs. Vickers, confectioner, now Miss Fitze and Mr. Brewster: Mr. Trehane, silversmith, now Mr. Moore: Mr. Woodman, trunkmaker, now Mr. Allen: Miss Jessie, toyshop, now Abbay and Baker: Mr. "Woolcott, shoemaker, now Mr. Mallett: Mr. Colson, draper, now Colson and Gates, previous to the death of Mr. Colson he was the oldest tradesman in High street: Mr. Luke, grocer, now Mr. Tucker: Mr. Ocock, baker, now Mrs. Stone: Mr. Lott, hatter, now Miss George: Mr. Adams, silversmith, now South Wales D. Bank: Messrs. Evans, straw bonnet maker, now part of bank: Mr. Snell, tailor, now Mr. Wish: Mr, Linscott, Ship Inn, now Mr. Yelland: Charlotte Bidgood, fruiterer, late Packham: Mr. Stocker, hairdresser, now Mr. Algar. Thomas Granger, Esq., Musgrave Alley: Mr. Bruuskill, tailor, now Mr. Bale: Mr. Tucker, grocer, now Mrs. Piper: Mr. Seaward, lace dealer, and Mr. Piper, perfumer, now West of England Fire Company's offices: Mr. Halsey, draper, now Mr. Eland: Shirley Woolmer, Gazette newspaper proprietor, Mr. Godfrey, grocer, now Mr. Ford: Mr. Medland, haberdasher, now Mrs. Mortimer; Messrs. Trueman, and Llewellen, drapers, now Mr. Dart: Mr. Wippell, ironmonger, same: Mr. Newcombe, glover and breeches maker, now Mr. Pyne: Mr. Collins, M.D., Mr. Pye, tobacconist, now Exeter and Plymouth Gazette offices: Messrs. Nation, Humphrey, and Pye's warehouse, now Mr. Anning's premises behind, extending to opposite Little Queen street, used for making the celebrated Nation's snuff, part of warehouse now occupied by Mr. Harris, accountant, his principal office being originally the Mayor's reception room, with panels of dark oak, and some curious carved and inlaid wood, the mantelpiece is also very antique (a sketch of which is to be seen in Mr. Cotton's "Elizabethan Guild"), the room was restored some years since by Mr. George Pye. The Mayor's state banqueting room is now occupied by Mr. Grant, Civet Cat, the entrance being opposite the above office, the approach being a stone court, and very wide steps with railing. The room occupied by Mr. Ware, surveyor, has a curious ceiling and mantel-piece; the dwelling house is used for offices, &c., by the proprietors of the Exeter Gazette, many rooms having curious oak carvings. The machinery and printing department was a garden. The premises are, I believe, the largest in the High street, and the house one of the oldest. Mr. Tapscott, shoemaker, resides where Mr. Gregory and Mr. Vanstone did. Mr. Luscombe, surgeon (who embalmed the Duke of Kent, Her Majesty's father), was offered the honour of knighthood, which he declined; he was then presented with two thousand guineas. His premises are now occupied by Mr. Salter, wine merchant; Mr. Bowden, now Mrs. Sprague; Mr. Bolt, now Mr. Steer; King's alley, Mr. Johns, shoemaker; Rectory House, Mr. Dart; Mr. Hellings, now Mrs. Allen; Mr. Hornsey, brushmaker, late Mr. Welsh, now Messrs. Wippell's. King's Lodge was Mesdames White's ladies' boarding school (many highly-respectable families sending their daughters to be educated there from India), now Mr. Quicke's academy, his father, also, having youths from India to educate I remember two, who knew no other home, and were with him for upwards of twenty years each. Mr. Cossins, silversmith and parish clerk, and Mr. Pridham, smith, Miss Langsford, milliner. Bedford street, Mr. Hitt, shoemaker; Mrs. Street, Clarence stables; Mr. Pearce, fly proprietor; Mr. Snow, shopkeeper, now Mr. Mayne, bookseller; Half Moon stables, with extra ground on the site, now Savings Bank, and extending to Bedford Chapel. Carriages, &c., from the Clarence stables, were left in the present roadway, no houses being then built. Mr. Woodman, coachbuilder, now Mr. Sellers; Thomas and Betty Sprague, about fifty years sexton and sextoness in the above parish; and Mr. Westcombe, hairdresser, now Miss Tolley; Mr. Cousens, Militia-sergeant; and Mr. Bowden, bellows-blower, now brewhouse; Mrs. Moxhay, now Mr. Pearse, Devonshire Arms.

I will give a few instances of old assistants and domestics connected with the parish. At present there are living with Mr. Wippell two domestics, one whose service reaches forty-one years, and the other twenty years, and J. Punsford, in shop, thirty-nine years. Mr. Tucker, grocer, Pitts forty-six, Norris twenty-eight, and a domestic died some time since who had been more than thirty years in their employ. Mr. Head with Mr. Adams fifty-three, Mr. Shorto from 1829 to Mr. A.'s declining business in 1852 twenty-three years. Mr. Titherley, with Mr. Lott, hatter, about twenty. Mesdames Buxton, with Messrs. Colson and Sparks, just forty years each; also Miss Pinn and Mrs. Criddiford, nearly fifty years. Mr. Stoneman, with Messrs. Kingdon, ironmongers, forty years. Pitts, with Mr. Kingdon, fringe maker, thirty years. Gazette Office, many who first commenced as apprentices working on in the capacity as journeymen until their death. Mr. Welsh, with Mr. Hornsey, brushmaker, thirty years. Messrs. Pippet and Northway, Mr. Medland, haberdasher, about forty years; Martha Wellsman, shop assistant, fifty years; and two domestics about the same time. Mr. Godwin, with Mr. Newcombe more than fifty. Bale, with Mr. Collins, M.D., thirty years; Arthur Vanstone forty eight; James Hellings forty; and the writer of this, including apprenticeship, thirty-seven years; domestics, fifty-seven, thirty-two, and thirteen years each, with two men occasionally employed, twenty-four years, so that, in the aggregate, eight parties lived and were in the employ of Messrs. Pye for about 250 years. Mr. and Mrs. Sprague with Messrs. Trewman, seventy years. Mr. Gregory, with Messrs. Trimble about twenty-five years. Mr. Bowden and two domestics, with T. Granger, Esq., about 110 years. Mr. Bolt and his son, with Messrs. Granger, Sanders and Snow, wine merchants, about sixty years; Mr. Banfill, clerk, fifty-two years; Mr. Thomas, clerk, fifty; and four old cellarmen just 130 years the eight being in the above firm 290 years.

Edmund Granger, Esq., Rougemont Castle, head of the above firm, was put in nomination for the city representation 1802, the result of the polling being, Buller, 786; Bampfylde, 637; Granger, 444. Thomas Granger, Esq., brother of the above, was a very precise man, and had eccentric ideas, his principal occupation being a daily ride, if possible, within a radius of three miles of the city, on a very stout pony about 13 hands high; instead of stirrups a pair of gambados, made of very thick leather, to cover the hind part of his legs and rest for the feet, a leather case for umbrella, and a stick, which was in perpetual motion on the sides of the pony; occasionally he would wear spurs. The late Thomas Sanders, Esq., asked him why he wore them, knowing they were of no use inside the leather. He answered, "My dear Tom, if I find the pony lazily inclined, I get off, rub the spur against his side, then he goes on like a thoroughbred." I may add that his pace was never out of a walk. His pet animals at home were a number of guinea-pigs, running about in his garden. His son, Dr. Granger, resided in the same house until his death. Dr. Shapter commenced his practice in this parish, having apartments at Mr. Wippell's.

P.S. Some of the above mentioned old domestics, from their long servitude in the same families, almost forgot their own surnames, they were called Mary Pye, Betty Granger, Susan Tucker, &c., after the families they lived with. Having related in the beginning of my letter the independence of tradesmen in former days, I will give two instances. A gentleman seeing a pair of silver candlesticks in the window of Mr. Skinner, enquired the price; after a little conversation he said he did not care about selling them, because he must get another pair. The either case was at Mr. Ferris's, jeweller. Three tradesmen's daughters went in to enquire the price of a chain. Mrs. Ferris, a very stately old dame, walked out from the room behind, and said, " Well, what do you girls want?" "Please tell us the price of that chain." "Get along with you," was her reply, " what can girls like you want of a chain ? I shan't tell you, and if you come again disturbing me in my tea-time I will find out who you are, and tell your mother of your doings." In the window of the above-mentioned was often to be seen a large cat, lying on the jewellery.

First, or East Devon Militia, About 1826

At this time the different parishes had to give their quota of men. Lists of those eligible were put on the church doors, exemptions being over age (35 years), family of more than four children, and apprentices. Those that were from other causes exempt had to give their reasons, such as illness, lameness, or too short, &c., which list was also placed on the doors. The tradesmen and others subscribed to a fund 10s. each, to provide substitutes should any of them be drawn. The drawing was done by putting the name on a slip of paper into a bag or hat. The first names taken out were the ones to serve during the various periods of drilling, or any emergency. Substitutes generally received about £10; during the war as much as £30 were given. The surplus money from the fund was returned to the subscribers. The regiment consisted of eight companies of 100 each, under the command of Colonel Lord Ebrington (the late Earl Fortescue), Lieutenant-Colonel Fulford, senr., Fulford House, Dunsford, and Adjutant Captain Holman. When called out they were drilled in the Castle yard, being billetted at the various hotels and public-houses in the city and neighbourhood. Each company was drilled by the sergeants on the staff, who were small tradesmen. They were called out in the summer, between the hay and corn harvests. The bugles were sounded at five o'clock, muster at six, two hours drill, then rations served out to them (bread and meat), which they stack on their bayonets and carried through the streets. There were two other drills during the day. At nine o'clock at night the fifes and drums would beat the tattoo through the streets, accompanied by hundreds of people, leaving the London Inn Square, and going to Exe Bridge and back.

The officers' mess was generally at the Half Moon. The young fifers and drummers were tutored in the mornings in the field under the goal at that time there was no carriage way, being a succession of church-path fields from Barrack lane to St. David's Church, the only residence in that neighbourhood being Woodbine Villa, now the residence of Mr. H. Sellers. The dress was very different from the present; the jacket red, with very short tails, black trousers, with gaiters, and a very stiff black stock, a stiff round felt hat with a square front and two white tassels hanging by the side–with the exception of the first company, who were picked out for their height, named Grenadiers, who wore fur caps the shape of a Bishop's mitre; the eighth company were the smallest men, named Light Company and wore green tassels.

In full marching order the advance were two men, about 400 yards in front of the regiment, at a certain distance four more, then a sergeant's guard of ten. In front of the band were about ten men called pioneers, or "awkward squad," with their leather bands round the waist and over the shoulders, carrying a pickaxe, saw, hammer, &c., which were to be used should there be any impediment in preventing the regiment from passing.

One of the officers informed me that the longest march he had was from Yorkshire, which they did in three weeks, and came into the city very little worse for the distance The Devonshire Militia was considered to be able to stand more fatigue than any other in the kingdom. The average height of the men was 5 ft. 7 in., and they had very broad shoulders, so much so that they took more space for the same number than any other regiment. The Lancashire Militia were the tallest, average height 5 ft. 10 in.

Regiments marching in those days through Exeter were billetted at the various hotels and inns. At five o'clock the bugles were sounded to muster, at six leave for the next town, then breakfast, remain the day, and march next morning, Sunday excepted. The baggage followed, guarded, women and children on the top, also soldiers invalided. The advance men with the route on the previous day would stop any waggons or carts in the streets, take their names and residences, giving them orders what to do, and if not complied with, any extra expenses they were obliged to pay. There being no cavalry barracks below Exeter, only foot regiments passed through. The accoutrements were kept in a similar building to the one now occupied by the Warder of the Castle, on the opposite side. On Sunday mornings the sergeants and band assembled at ten o'clock, and marched to the Cathedral, under the command of Sergeant-Major Salter; the band under Drum-Major Clark, leader Mr. Ronchetti; route down Castle street, High street, Martin's lane, across the Cathedral yard to the North door, which was open for this purpose. After the service the men returned to their homes. The other Devonshire regiments were the 2nd, or South Devon, head-quarters Plymouth; and the 3rd, or North Devon, head-quarters Barnstaple. Some years since the latter regiment was formed into an Artillery corps, doing garrison duty at Plymouth.

Previous to the termination of the war in 1815, the East Devon did duty in Ireland. On returning a very heavy gale came on, and the ship was on the point of foundering; however, she weathered the storm, and the regiment returned to old "Semper Fidelis," much to the joy of relations and friends. Prevoius to his death September 1875, Capt. Hugh Cumming was the only officer living that joined the Regiment in the last century, having had his commission in 1798 during the Irish Rebellion, being then 15 years of age. Mr. Pinney (Bandmaster of the Yeomanry) joined the staff in June, 1824, and he is, I believe, the only one living belonging to the staff at that time.

Officers of the East Devon Militia, 1820. Colonel, Lord Ebrington, Lieut.-Colonel, B. Fulford; Major, J. Pitman; Captains, Courtenay, Treby, Marsh, Clark, Savile, Carpenter, Hamlyn, Hon. N. Fellows; Lieutenants, Crowther. Sanderson, Ellicott, Martin, Whittaker, O'Brien, Kingdon, Dewdney; Ensigns, Cornish, Ponsford, Campbell, Lloyd, Lardner, Pearse, Farrant; Adjutant, Captain Holman.

Reminiscences of Exeter

On Tuesday, two days previous to Ascension Day, the Mayor and members of the Chamber, accompanied by the blue coat boys belonging to St. John's Hospital, perambulated the city bounds; a boat was provided near the lime kilns in which a staff bearer and some of the elder boys with their captain embarked, skirting the Quay, and on passing the vessels they were drenched with buckets of water, thrown over them by the sailors. At this time ships were more numerous than now, generally from twelve to twenty. At times the bath was not relished, but a cheer now and then made it pass off good-humouredly. On their attempting to land on the rack field, the boat sometimes would be upset and all got immersed. Having reached "terra firma" they proceeded to Exe bridge, where one portion of the party went up the Bonhay, the other through Exwick fields, meeting at the Cowley bridge Inn, where a good breakfast was provided; also one for the boys, after some of them had swam across the river, for which some silver money was given them. After this repast they ascended the hill to Marypole-head, arriving home about one o'clock, when their best clothes were put on, and each being decorated with a blue rosette, they were accompanied by their captain down the High street, cheering on their way, to a good substantial dinner provided for them at the Market House Inn, then situated in the Old Butcher's Market. This day was considered by the boys the greatest red letter day of the year.

Ascension Day, a general holidays for school boys, who perambulated the boundaries of their parish, accompanied by the Clergyman, wardens, and parishioners, who on their return gave the boys rolls, cheese, and ale–many of them would be quite saturated with water, which was thrown over them from windows, roofs, and other available places, it being the custom to do so. The fun was enjoyed by all. Ponds were made in the gutters, and unless pence were thrown in parties were splashed with dirty water; and such was the dread of this custom, that people did not come into the city unless business compelled them. The parishioners had a dinner at an hotel or inn in the parish, enjoying a few convivial hours with each other, the clergyman, generally, as chairman. Boys would assemble outside the window, when pence would be thrown out for a scramble, sometimes after being made hot.

May 29th, large branches of oak trees were placed at tradesmen's doors and windows in commemoration of King Charles II. In the evening boys would go round and beg for the branches, and make alcoves with them in different parts of the city. At night they were illuminated with candles, for which the lookers-on would give the occupiers some pence. During the day the Cathedral and other parish bells would be rung, and boys and girls would wear gilded oak apples and leaves.

In the first week in May droves of calves for rearing were constantly passing through the streets in numbers of one hundred and upwards, (the bleating noise may be imagined). Most of them coming from Dorset, they were called the "Dorsetshire Militia”; the carcases of younger ones were brought down in light spring waggons, the veal being sold from 4d. to 5d. per lb.; the head 10d., the henge, consisting of liver, lights, heart, and sweetbread 1s. 3d.

Pair horse post chaises to accommodate two persons, the driver sitting on a cross bar about six inches in width, always wearing top boots; there being sufficient space between the two wheels behind, two or three boys would get up and ride until disturbed by a lash from the driver's whip. Ladies in wet weather wearing pattens, the ears being generally of a red colour, nicely bound, tied with coloured ribbon according to taste. The lower part of the dress pulled through their pocket hole; middle class females similar to the above style, but with the addition of a very large strong pocket, capable of putting a couple of rabbits in, and which was used instead of the present spice and workboxes, its contents being a grater, ginger, nutmeg, mace, cloves, nobs of sugar, and a screw of tea; also scissors, keys, bodkin, needles, pins, tape, sealing-wax, &c. Bonnets were in fashion in those days, made of a rich cream-coloured straw, called Tuscan and Leghorn; shape crown about six inches high, tied under the chin, covering the ears and the front from twelve to sixteen inches, which acted as a sunshade and fan. Parasols were used only by the gentry, tradesmen being very tenacious about their daughters carrying one, considering it was inconsistent in their station of life. Veils also came under the same category. Fashions and ideas change in a few years; now servants imitate their superiors in dress. I remember when they wore good plain print dresses, white aprons, and mob caps–no bonnets. They went shopping in this style, and took their purchases home with them. In the mornings they did their work in short sleeves, and drilled the mops on their arms. They also kept their situations, almost as many years as weeks now, receiving for their services from five to eight pounds per year.

Recruiting for the army: sergeants, corporals, and privates of different regiments with fifes and drums paraded the streets on market days. On seeing any likely recruits the soldiers would leave the ranks and partially exchange clothes with them, walk off arm in arm, and on the return to the rendezvous the recruit would make choice of his regiment, take the enlistment shilling, drink to His or Her Majesty's health, and felt proud of being a loyal defender of his country.

Service in the outer aisle of the Cathedral in aid of the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, when about 3,000 boys and girls attended from various schools in the city and neighbourhood. It took many days preparing, the side aisles were fitted up in tiers, with strong thick planks. The centre also with boards for the general congregation, which consisted largely of the gentry of the city and neighbourhood–in fact it was one of the days of note, so many families coming into town. The children sang during the service the sixteenth psalm, also the Old Hundredth. Three or four evenings previous to the above, the children would assemble about four o'clock for a rehearsal, the conductor being either Mr. Cole or Mr. Risdon. Plates were held at the doors for donations, the average being from eighty to ninety pounds. In 1836 the collection after a sermon by the Rev. J. D. Coleridge, amounted to £116 16s. 10¾d.; the Duke and Duchess of St. Alban's being in the city held two of the plates.

At seven o'clock on Christmas Day, previous to the morning prayers, the organ played the Old Hundredth Psalm–the chorister boys singing it in the Minstrel Gallery, being provided with candles. Hundreds of people attended, but the unruly conduct of parties who had accompanied the various choirs during the night singing anthems and carols (which was very general then), the Dean and Chapter ceased to have it done in the outer aisle.

Maundy Thursday: after service, "Peter's Pence" were given to children, distributed by the vergers, standing at the door under the north tower; the exit being the entrance near Southernhay, giving the alert ones time to come round again. The confusion and noise was so great, the vergers were desired to throw the pence in the yard for a general scramble, which excited much amusement to lookers-on. This custom ceased many years since.

Previous to the duty being taken off advertisements, parties gave their ideas and opinions by chalking it on shutters, more particularly on the eve of a contested election, Saturday nights being more general that it might be seen the following day. Captain Cook's bulletin was also eagerly looked for. The old Corporation on gala days walking in procession; in front about twenty-six constables, who were tradesmen selected from the different wards, with Mr. Turner, silversmith, captain, Mr. Cuthbertson, deputy-captain; then followed the different corporate trades with their banners, four staff-bearers, wearing three-cornered hats, with a quaint loose dress, walking with their long six feet staves, mounted in brass with a large ball on the top, then four mace-bearers, sword-bearer, mayor and aldermen in scarlet robes, with three-cornered hats, gentlemen in plain clothes, being members of the chamber, followed by three tradesmen's sons, named mayor's stewards, wearing black gowns with various tufts on them, the outer one being known as the gutter steward. As the above always walked in the pathway, all temporary obstructions were removed.

Going to London on pleasure in the thirty hours' old coaching days was considered a great event, parties going round to acquaint their friends and offering to take parcels &c., very frequently to their own annoyance and inconvenience on their arrival in town. I will give two instances out of many: a gentlemen, willing to oblige his lady friends, had about a dozen parcels sent to him, containing butter and cream, and having promised to deliver it personally it took him about three days to deliver his charge. On his return home he desired his friends not to mention when he was going to London again. The other was a tradesman, on his first visit to the metropolis who thinking it was a little larger than Exeter, and that he would be enabled to deliver them in a day or two, found it occupied him almost the fortnight of his stay. On his return home he said the parcels and letters occupied nearly the whole of his time in delivery, and therefore could scarcely see anything worth relating, so "next time I go no–more parcels."

Visitors arriving from London–the great dread was the uninvited ones, viz., "Norfolk Howards," of which at this time every house in London was supposed to have more than agreeable, and to avoid any importation of the above-named, trunks, boxes, &c. were taken to the rear of the premises, opened and examined previous to anything being taken to bedrooms, and, if necessary, underwent the process of fumigating with brimstone.

On market days, a jolly farmer on a good substantial broad-back horse, with his wife–in those days called "dame" sitting on a pillion behind him, with arm round his waist, bringing with them produce of their dairy and poultry yard; and as time was not so important as now, the pace was about three miles an hour. They also provided themselves with an immense sized gingham, for protection from rain, sun, and dust; and for the purpose of mounting, lifting steps were erected at most inns, either in the yard or near the door. The above style of riding was not exclusively adopted by farmers, but frequently a smart-dressed groom on a spirited horse, with a wide leather band around his waist, with a loop behind for the lady to hold, was seen going through the streets; also in the country on a Sunday going to church, where steps were provided at the entrance for dismounting. At this time very few vehicles were in use or fashion on market days. Most of the produce of a farmer was brought in on the back of a horse, with a pannier on each side, with man or woman riding behind. A retired tradesman, about sixty, informed me that he was the first party who left Exeter in a gig for his journey to solicit orders for his firm travellers then going by coach, or on horseback with saddle-bags. The representative of a firm that I had some knowledge about, took just three weeks from hence through Cornwall and back.

Executions in Devonshire Since 1794

Wm. Martinborough (a black), was the first man executed at the now drop after the erection of the new Gaol in 1794, for murder. Since that time (including him) there have been seventy-nine executed, just an average of one a year–twenty-eight for murder, three for administering poison, the others for various offences. In 1800 (April 6th), seven were hung, none of them for murder. One more would have been added to the seventy-nine, viz., Edward Galley, who was convicted with Thos. Oliver alias Buckingham Joe, for the murder of Mr. May in 1836. The old law was that the condemned should be hung within forty-eight hours after their sentence, but the act for prolonging the time came down the previous night. The late J. Carew, Esq., having heard the trial, was quite convinced that Galley was not guilty, and after an immense deal of trouble and communication with the Home Secretary, the culprit was reprieved and sent to the convict establishment at Woolwich. Oliver, at the trial, denied that Galley was an accomplice and repeated his denial on the gallows.

Previous to the remodelling of the prisons by J. Hayward, Esq., architect, there were two distinct establishments, the Gaol and the Bridewell, the entrance to the former being near the present Constabulary building. The Bridewell was the present entrance to the prison. The drop was at first over the Gaol, and was removed to the gateway at the Bridewell. The first executed there was George Sparks, in 1855; the last person executed in the precincts of the Gaol was J. Landick in 1849. Included in the above seventy-nine, one culprit was from, the city, viz., Samuel Homeyard, for forgery, in 1818, who was executed at Magdalen temporary drop, the last execution there previously to this being thirty-two years before. The foundation stone of Bridewell was laid by S. F. Milford, Esq., 22nd August, 1807. Before the goal was built the executions for the county were held at Ringwell, about two miles on the London road. On one occasion there were six hanged–four men and two women. They were taken through Heavitree in carts, each sitting on a coffin. After they were cut down, they were buried near the same spot.

I will now contrast the excitement which, according to my earliest recollection, attended former executions, with executions of the present time. Formerly, as early as six o'clock in the morning, hundreds of people would be on Northernhay and in front of the gaol, and from that time until twelve o'clock, the streets were filled by a moving mass of people, coming from the country in every kind of conveyance available, principally two-horse waggons and carts, as if they were going to an Agricultural Show or races. I have heard some of them say they left their homes at midnight. Just before twelve o'clock every spot within view of the gallows was crowded with spectators. At that time there were fields in front of the goal, and no road or railway. All prisoners, if possible, witnessed the execution. In the High street, at twelve o'clock, scarcely a person was to be seen, the respectable people keeping indoors, and none, if possible, coming into the city on that day. After the body was cut down the streets were all bustle again. In the case of a murderer the body was given to the Hospital for the purpose of dissection, and was conveyed there in a cart in the afternoon, and placed in the dead house, for the inspection of those who had a morbid taste.

Since the executions have been within the precincts of the gaol, the excitement has almost ceased, a black flag hung over the gateway being the only outside indication of the last penalty of the law having been carried out. Let me add a brief description as to how the public got their information previous to the stamp duty being taken off newspapers. The Assizes then being looked forward to with anxiety and interest, the printers would ascertain the names of prisoners and crimes about two days previous to the commission day; these were printed on a piece of paper at the price of halfpenny each, and men, women, and youths went through the city with the continual cry of "The Calendar of the Prisoners," and an immense number were bought, especially by the country people. The same type was made available at the close of the Assize, with the addition of the various sentences. T have seen about thirty to forty people waiting outside the printer's for the list, and when obtained they would rush through the streets calling out "Sentences of all the Prisoners; " others would go to the neighbouring towns and villages, each trying to be there first by running. On the occasion of an execution the same sized bill would be printed, with a supposed portrait on the top suspended to a gallows. The previous evening the print jr would ascertain from the authorities if they had received a reprieve (the mails arriving in Exeter about four o'clock in the afternoon); if not, a brief description of the murder was printed, with the convict's supposed dying words, or confession, generally concluding with "he died without a struggle," "he was launched into eternity," " a convulsion of the nerves for about two minutes," or "he confessed his guilt," such was the information eagerly bought. I will leave the reader to guess how the news was conveyed previous to telegraph wires and railways, for within five minutes of the execution the account was in most of the towns and villages within eight miles of Exeter.

I remember when two men were hung, 24th August, 1827, for a burglary at Tiverton, hearing a then well-known blind fiddler calling out the last dying speech previous to the bolts being withdrawn. The boy who led him about gave him a jerk, saying "They b'eant off 't!" I account for this premature announcement from the fact that previous to the culprits ascending the scaffold the noise and buzz of voices quite filled the air, but at the first stroke of the shrill clock the silence was like that of midnight, and the blind man, hearing a sound at a distance, supposed, to use the general term, that "they were turned off." However, he had not long to wait, and the contents of his well-filled pockets were soon disposed of to the surrounding crowd. After a carousal, the country people returned to their various destinations in the evening, the city resuming its general quietude.

List of Executions at the County Prison

1795 March 20th William Martinborough (a negro), for murder

1798 April 9th J. Nicholson, forgery

1798 August 17th P. Peele and J. Mclntyre, coining.

1799 March 23rd Mary Martin, murder.

1799 April 5th Betty Limpenny, arson.

1799 August 23rd J. Bugwater, highway robbery.

1799 August 23rd J. Chulmleigh, E. Adams, horse stealing. .

1800 April 6th J. Pooley, J. ‘Trick, W. Thorn, H. Pinsent, sheep stealing..

1800 April 6th J. Deane, highway robbery. R. Fisher, bullock stealing.

1800 April 6th J. Belson, stealing from Dockyard.

1800 April 21st R. Boast, W. Blades, S. Hughes,, T. Hoest, uttering forged notes

1800 April 21st W. Smith, highway robbery. J. Allen, forgery.

1800 August 27th M. Jewell, W. Hockaday, housebreaking.

1800 August 27th J. Pollard, forging a seaman’s will.

1801 April 7th H. Hunt, horse stealing.

1805 April 5th S. Comer, forgery.

1805 August 12th Betsy Heeley, murder

1805 August 23rd J. Hayes, rape.

1806 August 4th V. Lopez. murder of a Spanish prisoner.

1806 August 15th J. Rendall, forgery.

1807 August 5th C. Cunado, murder.

1808 April 6th B. Payne, murder.

1808 August 16th G. Godbeer, murder.

1811 August 12th Jane Cox, murder.

1812 April 3rd J. Williams, highway robbery.

1813 March 26th T. Luscombe, murder.

1814 August 6th W. Vincent, murder.

1815 March 27th S. Norton, murder.

1815 April 7th S. Summers, administering poison.

1815 August 4th J. Chisholine, forgery.

1817 March 24th. R. Finsom, murder of his wife.

1818 March 23rd J. Green, murder. .

1818 April 3rd J . Prinn. unnatural crime.

1819 March 21st Mary Woolman, murder.

1819 April 2nd J. Atkins, unnatural crime.

1819 April 2nd J. Northcote, bullock stealing.

1819 April 2nd S. Hellings, administering poison.

1820 April 3rd T. Musgrove, stealing a sheep.

1820 August 18th J. Cribble forgery.

1821 April 6th J. Bagwell, highway robbery.

1821 April 6th J. Bowden, W. Bowden, house-breaking.

1821 August 28th P. Chapple, murder.

1822 April 2nd J. Perry, arson.

1823 April 4th J. Bolt, shooting at Jane Joslin

1823 July 28th J. Redford, murder.

1827 April 2nd A T. Friend, murder.

1827 April 16th J. Orchard, forging a will.

1827 April 24th J. James, G. Champion, burglary at Tiverton.

1829 April 3rd T. Helston, W. Trethew, robbery.

1829 April 17th Keziah Westcombe, murder of her husband.

1829 April 17th Richard Quaintance, accessory to the fact.

1830 March 25th G. Cudmore, murder.

1830 August 20th W. Cornish, unnatural crime.

1832 March 26th Mary Kellaway, murder of her child.

1836 August 12th T. Oliver, (alias Buckingham Joe).

1849 April 9th J. Landick, murder.

1853 April lst G. Sparks, murder.

1854 August 4th L. Harvey, murder.

1861 March 30th R. Hacked, murder.

1866 March 28th Mary Ashford, poisoning "her husband

1866 August 18th J. Grant, murder of a boy at Plymouth.

1869 October 11th W. Taylor, murder at Devonport. This was the first execution within the precincts.

1874 August 10th T. Macdonald, murder at Stonehouse.

1877 November 19th William Hussell, murder of his wife at Barnstaple.

City Case

1818 November 13th. S. Holmyard was hung at Magdalen gallows for forgery on the

firm of Milford, Nation, and Co. He attempted to pass one of the notes

to Mr. Ellis, jeweller. Great efforts were made for a respite, but, being his

second offence, it was not entertained.

1837 July 17th, death for forgery abolished.

1866 Another culprit narrowly escaped a similar fate - Charlotte Winsor, baby

farmer at Torquay, tried and condemned to death. ' She was respited twice,

and eventually sentenced to penal servitude for life. The gallows was

erected, coffin made, and grave dug. Calcraft came down twice.

Recollections of Old Exeter

According to promise I now send you some further remarks on the various improvements that have been made in Exeter within a few years. The best of them is Queen street and road. Previous to this there was only a narrow passage, with two upright posts from High street, for persons going to the fish, potatoe, and oat markets. The cart traffic was through Gandy and Little Queen streets.

Two houses occupied by Mr. Knott, chemist, and Mrs. Higgs, milliner, were taken down, also the front room belonging to the Swan Tavern, this room being principally occupied by musicians when any exhibition or panoramas were being shown in the large room behind. In the rear of the demolished houses was an open space extending to the potatoe market, in a line with what is now the Queen's Hotel. The oat market was in a line with Mr. Wippell's, mercer. On the site of the market were houses, shops, and yards, with frontage in Goldsmith street. This market was opened 24th July, 1838. The old post office site was occupied by Messrs. Tucker, cabinet maker, for a timber yard; adjoining this was Flindell's Luminary office, now Mr. Smith's music repository. Premises now occupied by Mr. Godbeer, coach builder, Mr. Dingle, cabinet maker, and Messrs. Harding, Richards, and Thomas, wine and spirit merchants, was a court, the entrance to the upper schoolroom for the Episcopal Charity boys, which school was founded by Bishop Blackall, 1708–Messrs. Geare and Tozer's office was the master's residence

The principal entrance to Paul street was from North street, being then mostly private houses occupied by many professional men. In this street was one of the most respectable schools in the city, Mr. Trueman, master. These premises are now occupied by Mr. H. Elmore of the South Western Hotel, who has a relict of the boys' school days–a door whose surface has names or devices cut on it. In front of the house were posts and chains in a line with the present kerb. The Museum Hotel, kept by Mr. G. Jury, was the private residence of J. Pidsley, Esq., with outhouses and garden behind, extending to the Dispensary and city walls, which crossed here in a line with the Castle. The road in front of the Museum Hotel was an entrance to Mugford's livery stables, and there men and horses were waiting day and night to convey light despatches for the Government. On the site of the handsome building, the Albert Museum and Free Library, was a lot of very old houses having an entrance from Paul street.

Opposite the city prison, now the carriage road to the South Western Station, was a rough piece of ground with a shed on it, used for breaking stones and beating carpets. On this spot, during the Royal Agricultural Society's visit in 1850, a large marquee was erected for the dinner under the catering of the noted cook "Soyer” The baron of beef was roasted in the Castle yard by gas heat, from thence it was carried on men's shoulders, with a band in front, under the leadership of Mr. Pinney, playing the tune–

"The roast beef of old England."

Queen street, beyond the prison, was fields, gardens and orchards. On cutting the road in 1833 by the turnpike trustees from Belmont, Cowley road, to the back of the New London Inn, it was suggested that a road could be made into the centre of High street by filling in the valley and covering the drain. It was done, and is now one of the prettiest entrances into the city. Perhaps at some future time, another great improvement may be accomplished, by removing the unsightly boards, and planting a few trees on each side.

The Magdalen bridge is also another great improvement, the original road being a deep descent nearly on a level with the under supports of the present bridge, with small houses on each side; the ascent was steeper with a hedge about thirty feet on the right, a little less on the other side. Messrs. Hooper having purchased most of the property from Sir Thomas Baring, in 1825, for the purpose of building on the site now known as Mount Radford, it was considered necessary to have a good approach to it. The bridge plan having met with the approval of the Commissioners of Improvement, it was carried out at a cost I believe of about £4,000. There were no public road then through the Barnfield estate. In 1827 Lower Southernhay road was widened. Paris street, the original road, being straight down and up the hill in front of Lower Summerland. In the old coaching days, when approaching the bottom of Paris street, the coachman slackened reins, and with a smack of the whip and the impetus, the horses were enabled to pull the coach to the summit of the hill at a stretched gallop. The present road was cut through Mr. Sweetland's dairy-house, yard, and fruit gardens. This alteration I believe was proposed by Mr. J. Clench on his first taking his seat as a commissioner. The site of Mr. Sclater's Alexandra Nursery was a rough piece of ground with a very dilapidated hedge. The recent improvements, openings, and cleanly appearance, also the view of the "Ever Faithful," including the majestic Cathedral, church towers, spires, hospital, and the stately trees on Northernhay, with the Whitstone and Haldon hills in the distance, makes this a very pretty drive or walk into the city.

The whole of St. Sidwell’s has been very much altered in appearance, and a great many small, low built private dwellings with thatched roofs having been taken down. From Summerland street there was no direct outlet, only a very narrow rough pathway to the various houses. Newtown and neighbourhood were open fields. The road leading to Hill's court was fields, with only a narrow path inside the hedges for pedestrians. The road in front of Park and Eldon places was very narrow, the trees almost overhanging the thoroughfare. If those parties who consider Exeter slow in its improvements could have seen the ancient city in the days of the above attempted description, they would exclaim What a wonderful transformation!

News Now and Then

The saying that news flies is daily verified. I will mention one instance. On Saturday last the summing-up of the Lord Chief Justice in the Tichborne case, and the concurrence of the other two judges, came to a close about 12.10; the jury returned their verdict in about half-an-hour; sentence was passed, and we received the news in this city about live minutes before one.*

My object is to give an idea to the present generation of our receiving news previous to the railway and telegraph communications. The probability is we should not have heard the result then until Monday morning, unless we had verbal information from a passenger, or the guard of the mail, on Sunday afternoon about four o'clock. No letters were delivered on that day, but parties having a box at the office could, on application, after the Plymouth and Falmouth mails were despatched, obtain them, for which accommodation one guinea a year was paid. Newspapers then were fivepence each.

The principal inns took in a paper each, which was read aloud to the company at eight o'clock, the contents being anxiously awaited. On any important occasion and when there was likely to be a division in the House of Lords or Commons, the inhabitants would await the arrival of the "Telegraph" coach, which left London at five o'clock in the morning, arriving in Exeter at ten o'clock to a minute. The guard generally had a newspaper, which he would lend to any respectable person he knew, who would read it aloud to the people, and if any strong partizan feeling was aroused, this would often terminate in a severe skirmish.

When the division was not known at night, the noted Captain John Cook would walk towards Heavitree to meet the "Balloon" or "Traveller" coach (which was due at the Clarence Hotel about eight in the morning) to ascertain the result, and, if favourable to his views, would chalk the number round his hat, stand on the top of the coach, and wave it to his friends who were waiting to receive intelligence. On descending from the coach he would go over to Moll's coffee house, Cathedral yard, which was the Club for the county and city gentlemen, leaving particulars of the news.

At the entrance to the room, there were seats in the doorway, which brings to my memory four constant visitors Capt. Hugh Cummings, who I believe is the only member of that Club living; Richard Eales, Esq., solicitor, of Eastdon; George Hirtzel, Esq., wine merchant, who was always noted for his ready wit; and also the late Charles Sanders, Esq., banker, a good specimen of the old English gentleman. Mr. Sanders always wore a wide-brim hat, Newmarket cut coat, drab waistcoat, breeches and gaiters, and a neat white necktie. He would stand outside, with his hands in his pockets, the right one ready to be withdrawn to grasp a friend, his other hand with a coin in it ready for any poor or deserving person passing by.

The above club was closed in 1829, when many of the members had their central meeting at Miss Polly Strong's, fruiterer, High street. The shop stood where is now the pathway in Queen street, adjoining Mr. Stile's, bookseller. The evening rendezvous was at Mr. Pye's tobacconist, now the Gazette Office, and was named "The Carlton Club." The Reformers' news-shop was at Mr. Norcombe's, woollen draper, corner of North street, now Mr. May's ironmonger.

On Captain Cook's leaving Moll's Coffee House, he would go to Mr. Curson's, bookseller, write his bulletin, which was exceedingly amusing, and giving the pith of news both local and foreign, and would hang it up adjoining his shop. On one occasion, on his pasting it up, a party took it off, followed him down the street, patted him on the back, saying, "Good morning Mr. Cook," and leaving it on his coat, he walked quietly on, much to the amusement of those who saw it.

Some time since a gentleman told me he remembered when only two clerks were employed in the post office, and one old woman who delivered the letters, which she took in a basket. At present the postal department in Exeter, including telegraph clerks and messengers, number about 150.

P.S.–The postage from London previous to the “penny postage” was eleven pence, and for the smallest enclosure double was charged; size limited to a sheet of fools-cap, envelopes being scarcely known. Peers and members of Parliament had the privilege of franking so many letters per day, by putting their names at the corner of the address.

* This extraordinary trial commenced May 11th, 1871, and the Claimant was sentenced 28th February, 1874, to two seven years’ penal servitude. Cost of trial, £60,074 19s 4d, the Jury receiving £3,780.

A Few Recollections of the Old Ide Burlesque Elections

After a contest for the city or county representation, persons who had taken an active part, or made themselves very prominent during the contest, were considered eligible to represent the above borough. According to custom addresses were printed and circulated, sometimes they were far from being complimentary or satisfactory towards the candidate. Then came out answers and numerous well written squibs, &c., &c. The candidate was generally represented by some noted or eccentric man. Names and titles according to circumstances, profession, or business, such as Lord Gooseberry, Lord Hallidagger, Lord Leatheram, Sir Harry Squintem, Sir Nicholas Tallow, Sir Osborn China, &c., &c.

When a procession was intended it was generally organized in St. Sidwell's, that it might pass through the High and Fore street on its way to the polling place on Ide green.

The representative candidate was in a dress similar to that generally worn, and was conveyed in a decorated cart accompanied by a large assemblage (not quite the elite of the city.) The musicians were allowed to choose their own instruments or materials, and play their own tune with variations. On the occasion of "Sir Nicholas Tallow's" procession, various designs, banners, and several high poles, surmounted with stuffed pheasants were carried, the latter emblematic of real ones, sent to him by a city candidate as an inducement for his vote and interest on his behalf.

The last principal procession I remember was the candidature of " Sir Osborn China," who was a glass and china dealer. His head was surmounted with a white, one-handled vase, which he very politely took off, on seeing any ladies favourable to his ideas–following his equipage were about thirty donkeys ridden by boys, voters, &c., &c. On arriving at the green, the usual preliminaries were gone through. The proposer and seconder then expressed their opinions of the capability of the candidate to represent that ancient, loyal, and independent borough.

The representative candidate was then ordered to speak his sentiments like a man, and after the enthusiastic reception, cheering, &c., and having to remove his hat that had been knocked down over his face several times, he would commence with, My lords, ladies and gentlemen, I will promise that if returned for this borough, it shall be equal to any place in the world. I will get his Majesty to reside here. A levee shall be held once a month, and every man, woman and child, shall be presented at court; also at the first opportunity both houses of Parliament shall be built here. And that you may be enabled to have tea cheaper, I will order a canal to be cut, that the largest ships from China shall come close to your doors, your mill stream shall be turned into milk, beer shall be pumped from your wells, made from, the finest malt and hops that can be procured. I will order the adjacent hills to be opened for the supply of coals; I will also have an Act of Parliament passed, that no widow shall marry before her husband's death. After these and many other ridiculous promises, also absurd questions put by the electors, a show of hands was demanded, and, no other candidate proposed, he was considered qualified and duly elected.

The committee then adjourned to the nearest public, formed a deputation to wait on the newly-elected member to ascertain the reason he had not taken his seat in the House of Commons. The answer not being satisfactory, he was ordered to be taken to the Bridewell, for the remainder of the Session. The people then congregated at a given locality and marched to the city, making the most discordant noises imaginable. On arriving at headquarters the fun was kept up to a late hour, the present police and licensing acts not being in operation then. Sometimes there were rival candidates for the above important position. The mode adopted for recording votes was, on the appearance of a man or woman on the green, two men would take hold of each arm, another push him in the back with great force against the wall, which was recorded as a plumper, any party having a prominent nose, occasionally the colour of his blood was to be seen, then the vote was entered as a split one. The state of the poll was announced every five minutes, sometimes increasing by thousands. On one occasion the close of the poll was stated to be 909,090 the defeated candidate only polling 111,111. The expenses of candidates, &c., were defrayed by subscriptions.

City Gaols

Being one "of those few living amongst us who have a personal recollection of the outside of the old Bridewell in South street," I am induced to give a few recollections about it. It was called Southgate prison, I have a vivid idea of the sombre appearance of it, standing across the street in a line with the present Trinity Church. Over the archway were the apartments for debtors, from which they had a view up South street, the bulk of the building being by the side adjoining the town wall. From this prison Homeyard was taken to be hung at Magdalen temporary drop for forgery, Nov. 13th 1818, he being the first hanged by the city authorities for thirty-two years. A large crowd accompanied him. He was sitting in a cart, with a book in his hand, his coffin beside him, the clergyman walking by the side. On the completion of the gaol, Northernhay street, June 1819, the prisoners were conveyed there. The first to enter was a debtor, a tradesman of High street, followed by another. I believe those were the only two debtors. The other prisoners were removed the same day, the route being through South and North streets, and up Northernhay street, there being no other carriage way at that time. Foot passengers went through Maddox row. The latter was opened in 1771, and is the only stone arch connecting the city wall left.

My first recollection of the city prison was being taken there to witness its building, when about six years of age, and now living this week to see the first preliminaries to its demolition, the site being intended, I hope, for a better and more agreeable purpose. During the time from June, 1819, to September, 1863 (the latter date the prisoners were transferred to the county gaol) I have known many exciting trials for criminals. I will name one out of the many. W. H. Ellis, clerk to Mrs. Newman, grocer, Fore street, was charged with robbery of money from her. After many examinations he was committed for trial September 7th, 1825, convicted January 9th, 1826, and sentenced to transportation. On opening his box it was nearly full of silver coins, the bulk being sixpenny pieces, of which there were some thousands. The remarks about the gaol and McCarthy's attempt to escape are correct. As it may interest your readers, I will add a few more particulars, having at the time visited the gaol and heard the warder's narrative of the affair. He said there was a rumour that something was going to occur on the Sunday morning about service time, and extra policemen were on duty, but invisible to the prisoners. Suddenly Warder Guppy's wife gave an alarm that a prisoner was trying to escape over the outer wall. The police ran down in time to get hold of his legs; in about two minutes more he would have been in the field now occupied by the South Western Railway Company.

It was the surprise of all how he could have managed. The warder, going his last rounds, saw him apparently asleep. After this he must have worked in earnest, making a jacket, cap, and bag for a brick, also long ropes with his blankets. The ropes were about the circumference of a penny. The dress was very nicely made, and intended to represent a baker's. He was a tailor by trade. With an old spoon he gradually cut from the inside the panel of the door, and with a push with his foot got into the airing ground, ascended the wall, stood on the two points, throwing the rick over the outer wall, which caught, and he began to climb until checked. He was a very daring character, and was sentenced to twenty years' transportation for housebreaking at Mr. Windeat's, draper, Broadgate, within a few yards of the police station, effecting his entrance by breaking a square of glass over the doorway, The unfortunate city debtors, under the care of Mr. Gully, received every reasonable comfort, and friends were admitted to visit them within certain hours. Mr. Gully, sen., was governor of the Southgate Prison, also at the City Gaol, until his decease in 1830, when his son (Mr. J. Gully) was appointed, and continued to hold the office until September 1863, when the prisoners were removed to the County Gaol. The foundation stone of the City Prison was laid by C. Brake, Esq., 4th June, 1818.

Reminiscences of Old Exeter

Persons who have been absent from Semper Fidelis for many years, on re-visiting the old city, declare that it is improved and so much altered that they cannot recognise some of the localities. As many of the present inhabitants can scarcely realize these improvements, I will mention a few within my remembrance:– High, Fore, and the other streets were paved with small stones, but are now macadamised. To this latter plan many inhabitants objected, saying the streets would be very muddy or dusty; to which the late Captain John Cooke, who was a Commissioner, replied: "If swept there would be no mud; if watered there would be no dust." I will leave to the reader's imagination the noise from the traffic over the stones. Southgate has been taken down. It crossed the street opposite Trinity Church, and the city debtors and prisoners who were confined within it were removed to the prison in Northernhay street in 1819.

North street was widened at the top in 1821, there being then just sufficient space for a cart to pass. "Father Peter " was not at that time in so elevated a position as he is now. I remember when a child, being lifted from the street to touch the "black man:" the figure was protected with iron rails. Broadgate was removed and widened in 1825: during the process, coaches and vehicles passed up and down Martin street, which gate was taken down in 1819. South street was widened in 1830, and was before so narrow that Russell's waggons were sometimes obliged to have goods taken out at the top of the street. The Conduit then extended about eight feet from the College Hall. At a more recent date Bell hill was lowered and widened. An idea may be formed of the former width when I say that the upper parts of some of the houses were just within shaking hands distance.

In 1834 the North street Iron Bridge was erected, its position being carried by a majority of one, the opposing party wishing to have it in a line with North street. Previous to this all carriages and vehicles from North Devon came over St. David's Hill, and down then very steep descent to the Plume of Feathers, passing the Barnstaple Inn (the front of which is made ground, the original depth being on a level with Exe lane), thence up North street. The traffic up and down was almost incessant. I have seen from 12 to 20 pair horse carts in succession, laden with lime, coming from the St. Leonard's and Countess Wear kilns. St. David's hill has been lowered and widened towards Red Cow Gate, some cottages taken down on the right near Elmfield House, a row of fine old trees cut down in front of Mr. Newcombe's town residence, now Mansion House School. Pound lane, leading to Hoopern Fields, being very narrow, was widened. The only residence in this locality was Woodbine cottage, for many years the residence of Mr. H. Sellers, now taken down for the purpose of erecting a row of houses by Mr. Roberts. About 1833 the High street footpaths were laid with Yorkshire stone, by Mr. Whitaker, contractor, who subsequently was appointed City Surveyor, under the old Commissioners. By his advice and under his superintendence, numerous improvements were effected. The first important one he did was the lowering of Fore street hill, by commencing just below North street, taking off the surface, and graduating until between three and four feet were removed. During the process all coaches and vehicles to the city passed through Bridge street, the original entrance.

The old Exe bridge was almost in a line with St. Thomas. The present one was built about 1776, and cost £30,000. Previous to this there was no direct entrance to Fore street hill, the city walls crossing at Westgate, just in the rear of Mr. Norton's, baker. New Bridge street was filled in and houses erected, the former level being the Island and Frog street.

The site on which the Lower Market is built, and which was opened December 9th, 1836, was a portion of the Butchers' row, the entrance to which from Fore street was a narrow passage, not so wide as the path, adjoining Mr. Pearse's, ironmonger, with a thoroughfare opposite leading to Guinea street of a similar width, without light or ventilation, the exit by the side of the Old Golden Lion Inn. The upper entrance to the Butchers' row was through Milk street, a pathway, the end a butcher's shop kept by Mr. England, and so narrow, that I have seen them take joints of meat from the stall to admit the horses' heads for the purpose of turning the corner. The cart entrance to the Butchers' row was under St. John's Bow, the arch being so low that carts were obliged frequently to partially unload. The direct line from the Old Bridge was up Stepcote hill. I have seen three horses pulling a waggon up that steep ascent.

At this time vehicles were not so much used. Wood, furze, potatoes, &c., were brought in on horses' backs, with crooks or cradles, a man leading the first horse, with three or four following. King street (Fore street hill) was formerly occupied by two shops, with premises behind, one a comb manufactory, but is now a direct line to that useful and desirable establishment, the baths and washhouses. Hack street, now called Coombe street, has been from top to bottom more or less widened. On the left hand side from Quay hill to the Westgate, a row of houses has been taken down, giving light and air, and a very extensive view from Redhills to Haldon and Mamhead, also of the Quay and river. The contrast between now and then is almost beyond imagination. With the exception of the house now standing at the corner, a whole row of houses has been taken down in Old Bridge street. Shillhay now Commercial road has been very much improved.

In the Bonhay there was no carriage way, but now an excellent road to the Bristol and Exeter Railway. The site of the Cattle Market was a rackfield for drying serges, &c. Lammas fair was first held there and in Exe Island, August 1823. Any person who has not been through Bartholomew yard lately will be agreeably surprised at the recent improvements, the old yard being re-trimmed, the Cemetery clean and well stocked with shrubs and mementos, a capital broadpath walk between the two cemeteries, with a beautiful view over the valleys to the distant hills. Previously there was no railing around Bartholomew yard, two rugged paths went across to the entrance opposite Friernhay street, where was a brick building, one side used by clergymen for registering burials, &c., and the other side by the gravedigger for his tools, with a wicket gate adjoining. Before the Lower Cemetery was converted to its present use, it was three fields kept for grazing. At the bottom there was a wide open drain; on the other side a succession of pigs' habitations, almost every inhabitant of Exe lane being the owner of one or two, and there being no sanitary laws the odour at times were far from agreeable.

At the top, the city walls extended the whole length, about 4 feet high and 2 thick. Near the middle of the yard was a recess in the nail to allow about six persons to sit, with an inscription overhead of the date of consecration, which was on Bartholomew's Day, 1637. The Lower Cemetery was consecrated by Bishop Phillpotts, August 24th, 1837, from which time to the opening of the New Cemetery in May, 1866, just 18,000 bodies were interred.

The foregoing remarks relate to changes, &c., in the lower part of the city.

I have seen two dates relative to the year Exe Bridge was built–1766 and 1769, very probably the first was the commencement, the other the finish of it. There is a toll of sixpence demanded from retail milk sellers coming over the Bridge on the first Lammas Fair Day, and I believe also from retailers in the city.

City Changes

Mr. A W. Davis, of Weymouth, alluding to my letter of the 5th July, says, "Being an Exonian I find the writer has made two errors." His letter states that Southgate was taken down in 1818; it should be 1810, during the Mayoralty of T. Floud, Esq. Also, the consecration of the old Bartholomew yard should have been 1603, instead of 1637.

The city prison, Northernhay street, was built for the debtors and prisoners, confined in the Southgate; the foundation stone was laid by C. Brake, Esq., Mayor, 4th June, 1818, and it was opened in the following year, during the Mayoralty of T. Floud, Esq. The different stages of the building are to my mind quite familiar. I know who the first unfortunate debtor was to enter, also the pulling down of Southgate, and the laying of the foundation stone of Trinity Church, on the 24th, June, 1819, by S. F. Milford, Esq., which church stands on part of the ground of the old gate. It was built, and was opened on Christmas Day, 1820, therefore the date Mr. Davis quotes from, is a misprint. I have also a list of Mayors for Exeter from 1800, and the name of T. Floud Esq., is mentioned twice–the years 1801 and 1819. The following is stated to be the years the four gates were taken down North 1769, East 1784, West 1815, South 1819.

With respect to the consecration of Bartholomew yard, I remember it was arranged that the Lower Cemetery should be consecrated on the 200th anniversary of the old one, which was according done by Bishop Phillpotts, on the 24th August, 1837. A procession was formed at the Cathedral emerging into High and North streets. At the entrance the choristers sang Jackson's Te Deum. John Gill, the city crier, who has had the care of the old yard for more than fifty years, informed me it was opened in 1637, the original tablet being inserted in the wall almost opposite to its first place. Southernhay yard was consecrated in 1664. Previous to these Cemeteries being opened the Cathedral and Mary Major's Yards were the burial places for about one thousand years.

The River. A Retrospect

On taking a walk to wards the Haven Banks, a few reminiscences of my boyhood flashed across my mind. Leaving Holloway street, I remembered the very contracted entrance to the Friars, which now is a wide carriage road with a view of the Belvidere on Haldon, the surrounding woods and green fields, which are always pleasing to the eye.

Where stands the Quaker's Meeting House (now used as a temporary Board school), and the houses below, was a rackfield where I have seen the various coloured serges stretched out to dry. Colleton Crescent very little altered, from which you have one of the most charming and extensive views in the neighbourhood. This crescent was built in 1802; in front of each house is a relic of bygone days–an iron framework for oil lamps, gas being burnt in the public streets, 1817. On my arriving at the quay steps, a door now in lieu of an open space leading to a nice wide path under Colleton Crescent green, from which was a good view of the river and canal, also overlooking the busy, quays. On widening the lower part the upper frontage of the wall gradually gave way, and it not being considered safe, the walk was closed.

At the quay were three good sized vessels and one fine steamer, "the Ossian," consigned to this port with brandy, the largest I ever saw here. I thought what a contrast now and the quay previous to the railway being opened to Exeter 1844; I have seen from 20 to 30 vessels, two or three deep, lying there, and the ground covered with various goods and packages, the quay for goods just extending below the passage boat house. Beyond this were coal yards and sheds (there being no thoroughfare then to the lime kilns). At this time the import of coals was immense, the surrounding towns and villages being supplied by the merchants. There were two trading companies for merchandise having about six vessels each, the tonnage from 120 to 180, sailing to and from London weekly, weather permitting. I have known goods delivered from London within the week, also some delayed more than a month. When delay arose and goods were wanted, parties would send to the Wharfinger's Office to enquire after the ship; sometimes the answer was "not sailed yet, wind wrong way," or, "we do not know where she is." On a vessel clearing the wharf, a manifest was forwarded, which was the only way of persons knowing for certain what vessels their goods were shipped in. Any of these traders being seen from Exmouth and passing the bar, a messenger who had a list would walk post haste to Exeter to announce her arrival to those who had goods on board, for which 3d., 6d., 9d., or 1s., was given him according to circumstances.

When discharging, the heavy goods were brought up in a kerry or sledge, the smaller parcels by privileged porters on wheelbarrows, who could engage an outsider to help, by attaching a rope and putting it across his shoulders, for which about fourpence per cwt. was paid on delivery. I believe these men were authorized to receive the charges for town dues, freemen of the city being exempt

In connection with the shipping I have seen small crafts building and repairing at the corner of what is now Messrs. Gabriel's timber yard, then a rack field. Opposite the quay within the enclosed wall and basin was a rough piece of undulating ground, with a stagnant pool of water, which in winter was a place of resort for skating and sliding on the ice.

The basin was opened by the Mayor and Chamber on Michaelmas day, 1830. A favourite vessel, the "Ranger," Captain Mitchell was the first to enter with flying colours, flags, &c. Previous to this the canal was extended from Turf to Topsham Lock; the first turf was cut by the Mayor, Humphrey Pinhey, Esq., April 19th, 1825. I remember when about twelve years of age walking down with my father, and his shewing and explaining to me the principle of the foundation, and the machinery for opening and shutting the locks, which were finished and opened in September, 1827. Some other portions of the canal were deepened to allow vessels of a larger size to come up than before.

The respected wharfinger, Mr. Banfill, must have experienced the most practical knowledge of the great change in the shipping at this port, he having been connected with this office for more than fifty years.

Above I omitted to mention the many years the large cannon lay about the quay, but now put to a practical use as guards to the gas pillars. These cannon were taken from the field of Waterloo, and intended as trophies for the Wellington monument, Somerset, but the freight and dues were so much, also the difficulty and expense of carriage to their intended destination, that the idea was abandoned.

Reminiscences of Exeter

Cathedral Yard.–An enclosure of wooden posts once occupied the place of the iron palisading: the yard was covered with gravel, and a pathway of paved stones led down the centre. No protection around the building; we were enabled to go around the buttresses. One or two houses stood this side of Chancellor Harington's residence, with, I believe, a garden behind, extending almost to the "Lady Chapel." On the site of Canon Cook's house stood two houses at a very little distance from the thoroughfare, with a dwarf wall and iron railing in front; one was a boarding school for young ladies, the other, I think, was occupied by the late Dr. Blackall. Beyond this is the iron bridge spanning the city walls. This bridge was erected on demolishing the wall, the outlet being a doorway. It was locked at night, and the keys kept by the man living at Broadgate, hence the reason of "no right of carriage way to Southernhay." On each side of the bridge in cast-iron letters are Burnett Patch, Mayor, R. Trewman, Esq., Receiver, 1814. I presume this was the year the present wide opening was made.

Many years since a portion of the Yard was enclosed with iron rails, taking a sweep from the north-east doorway passage to just above the institution round. to the front of the Cathedral; the enclosure being grassed, the open space left was a general playground for boys, whose noise was a great annoyance to the residents, and business departments, many important offices being within the Close, also four private banks, of which two remain. Some years since the Exeter Bank was almost re-built and remodelled; now 1876, the City Bank is being re-built, and when the other wing is finished, it will greatly add to the appearance of the Yard. Of the bankers, in the former I have known two, and the latter three generations. In addition to the four banks, there was another private one in the High street, called "The West of England" firm, Floud and Co. On the night of 11th May, 1829, there was a large robbery from this bank.

Two houses stood near the Deanery, and the carriage road was only wide enough to allow one vehicle to go through. The College was a row of houses on each side, many occupied by tradesmen. In 1838 some of the larger trees were cut down in the lower part of the Yard, near where the pump stood. The upper part of the Yard, now Mr. Worth's Art Gallery, was "Moll's Coffee House," where the county gentlemen, merchants, bankers, &c., &c., would meet daily to discuss the topics of the day, but from some cause it was closed in 1829. Many coaches used to start from and arrive at the Royal Clarence Hotel, kept by Mr. Congdon. The house has lately been refaced, remodelled, and enlarged by Mr. Birkett, and it is frequented by many private families for its quietness from the bustle of the city, also its proximity to the venerable Cathedral.

Southernhay.–The upper green was an open space, a resort for children to play, and used at fairs and other times for menageries, shows, &c.; the horse fair the other side of the road, extending from Dix's Field to the Barnfield, also opposite on one site of No. 2 green. I have seen as many as three hundred tied up awaiting purchasers. It was almost impassable, and dangerous from the restlessness and trying the speed and action of the animals. No. 4, the lower green, was a rough piece of ground, used by children playing; the site of the houses opposite was a deep incline used for depositing refuse from old buildings, &c. At the end, in front of those large old trees, was used for menageries, shows, &c. In front of the Hospital (which was built in 1741) and down to Magdalen street, road widened 1827.

Bedford Circus.–In 1825 the Circus began to be completed. The site on the right from the High street was a stand for empty carriages, carts, &c., also stables and yards, a coachmaker (Mr. Brown) occupying the site of the Surveyor's office. In 1820 the theatre was burnt down; 1821 re-opened; and in 1823 handbills were issued: "Theatre closed N.B. deserted"; in 1831 it was rebuilt. In the same year Bedford Chapel was begun. The removal of the houses, and thus throwing open to view the green from High street, will have a very pretty appearance, besides the advantage of more ventilation. This idea was spoken of when I resided in the parish of St. Stephen forty-five years since, when the Circus improvements were in contemplation, but so many difficulties arose that it was abandoned. The shop lately occupied by Mr. Hawkins was a private house, with railings in front, and the Half Moon Hotel had a very different appearance. It was kept by Mrs. Medland, afterwards by Mr. Stephens; when several coaches started for and arrived from various parts, the guards enlivening the inhabitants with tunes from their bugles. One was named "Jack Goodwin," who was considered a master of this instrument, which now is quite out of date. I understand he is still living at Plymouth. The booking office was at the shop now occupied by Mr. Norris, tailor. Under the management of the present occupier, Mr. Gardner, the hotel has a very clean and nice appearance.

Past Elections

On a dissolution of Parliament the writ was generally received in the city about two days afterwards; it was read by the High Constable in the middle arch of the Guildhall, where, if there was a probability of a contest, the different partisans assembled, and I have known it terminate in a fight.

At the nomination, about three days afterwards, at the Guildhall, the electors would meet their respective candidates at their hotels, and escort them to the hall. They were admitted at the back door, admission being by tickets, 150 being allowed to each candidate, and the same number for the Sheriff. At eleven o'clock the front door was opened, when the rush was immense, and the noise scarcely bearable.

I remember the great excitement when Sir W. W. Follett was elected, after his first defeat in 1832, when he was lowest on the poll by 135, his friends were determined to elect him, if possible, on the next occasion, and Conservative meetings, which took place once a month, in various parts of the city, presided over by gentlemen of the locality, especially by the late J. Carew, Esq., who took great interest in the cause, my brother being the secretary. In 1835, on a dissolution, Sir. W. Follett stood at the head of the poll by a majority of 396. In 1837, on Her present Majesty ascending the throne, the Parliament was dissolved, and the city election was fixed for the 22nd July, when there was no contest, Sir W. Follett and Mr. Divett being re-elected; the former proposed by S. Kingdon, Esq., seconded by E. A. Sanders, Esq., which was the debut of the present respected President of the Exeter Conservative association. E. Divett, Esq., was proposed by J. Tyrrell, Esq., seconded by Kesterman, Esq., J. H. Terrell, Esq., Sheriff.

On Sir W. Follett's first election, we had the largest procession I ever saw in the city, it being more than a quarter of a mile long, headed, as usual, by the then rising generation, followed by respectable young men, arm-in-arm, six abreast, interspersed by banners, flag-bearers, and musicians, Sir William, hat in hand, and gentlemen and tradesmen, all on horseback, private carriages and various vehicles all decorated, in the last carriage was a firm supporter of Sir W. Follett, the late J. B. Sanders. Esq., who, knowing the excited state of some portion of the inhabitants against the Conservatives, provided himself with some pounds of pence, which he threw amongst the crowd when he heard the groaning and hissing, and the coppers had the desired effect of his passing in comparative quiet. It was a beautiful sight, especially in the High street, to see the decorations of the houses with flags, banners, and mottoes; almost every window was occupied by ladies, with blue dresses, bonnets, &c. On this occasion the beautiful silk flag bearing Sir W. Follett's coat of arms was used, and for it the ladies subscribed one hundred guineas; also four beautiful silk banners, with coronets on the top, subscribed for by a few tradesmen. The flag was under the care of Mr. W. Piper, and was hoisted on any particular occasion, across the street, from, his house to Mr. Kingdon's, fringe maker. The banners were entrusted to Mr. D. Ross, watchmaker, and used by him, on all loyal occasions from his four windows. The banners wore presented a few months since to the Exeter Working-men's Conservative Union. As the procession was passing through Heavitree it was met by many barristers of the Western Circuit (it being the commission-day of the Assizes), who stood up in their carriages and cheered Sir William heartily. Sir W. Follett presented a very handsome silver teapot to Mr. Piper for his zeal in the cause. As far as I can ascertain there are about twenty-four voters living who voted in 1832.

First Exeter Rifle Volunteers

I remember the first raising of members previous to the Government authorising the enrolment as a national movement in 1859. Many times have I seen only about twelve or fourteen drilling in the Castle yard, and as an impetus to others many gentlemen joined. The late Major W. D. Moore took very great interest and trouble in its formation, and at his death in September 1874 was the senior volunteer officer in the kingdom. I may also mention some others who joined as officers and privates:–F. Hirtzell, J. Geare, Winslow Jones, W. Crabb, T. Floud, G. Truscott, G. Cumming, T. Sanders, &c.

The Exeter corps can also boast of five officers who have been mayors for the city, viz., Aldermen W. D. Moore, W. Buckingham, J. Harding, H. C. Lloyd, and H. Wilcocks, Esq. Captain W. J. Richards is now the senior officer, whose willingness and assistance is known to all. Mr. George Wippell retired a few months since on account of illness, having been a very useful member for upwards of twenty years. Mr. Tripe was also one of the first to join the corps.

The Long Brook and Waterloo Place

A discussion at a Town Council meeting respecting the inundation in Long-brook street and Waterloo place (the latter when built was named "Rockfield") induces me to give my recollections as to the alterations and improvements in this locality. The water that flowed through the brook arose from springs at Lion's Holt, and the brook was not considered a sewer. About the centre of Eldon place, on the opposite side, was a pond about three feet deep: the overflow of this ran towards the bottom of Barrack road. This pond was guarded by a white wooden fence, with posts, a large willow tree overhanging. The road was very little more than half of the present width; there was a field where now the lower gardens are, belonging to Park place, enclosed with a wide hedge. At times there was a large flow of water through this brook, and I have seen boys bathing in it in the field opposite the old gaol doorway. Before the North road was cut (about 1835) there was a succession of fields from Barrack road to St. David's Church, a very pleasant walk and a resort for children gathering buttercups and daisies. Previous to the road being cut under Northernhay, Ford's Nursery existed there, and extended to the back of Waterloo place. Shortly after these dwellings were erected, there being no Sanitary Board then, no notice was taken of the locality, but strong remarks were made respecting the skeleton structures, built as they were with, very old materials. My impression is there was no arch formed over the brook under these houses, but that they were supported by rafters. As soon as possible after the cholera visitation of 1832 all open drains were covered. Dr. Shapter, Mr. J. Daw, and others, were very energetic in seeing the work carried out, Mr. Whitaker Surveyor. Previous to this I have seen peasoup-colour fogs so thick at eight o'clock in the morning that one could scarcely distinguish shops across the High street.

Reminiscences of Exeter

Two men watering the streets with malt scoops, the water being ponded back by canvas and a piece of wood. The water was forced up into the city from Engine bridge by wheel and machinery–the property of the late James Golsworthy, Esq. Fire plugs were first laid down in 1822; the West of England Insurance Company subscribed £200 towards it. Twenty to thirty water-carts drawn daily through the High street by horses and donkeys, the water being dipped from the Exe, behind Mr. Bradbeer's, brushmaker, and retailed at halfpenny per bucket or three for a penny. The lower part of the city was supplied by men carrying two buckets with a hoop, and a piece of wood floating to prevent waste–two buckets for a halfpenny.

After heavy rain in the hilly streets, boys searching in the gutters for nails and pieces of iron, it being the wonder from whence they came; I have seen their caps half full. During heavy rain, tubs and every available utensil put in the streets to catch the water. Twenty to thirty people waiting at the conduit in South street for their turn for water; the supply at times was so limited that it would take half an hour to fill a bucket or pitcher, and parties had frequently to wait three or four hours for it. Many people may not know why the above was so appreciated: it was considered the best for tea and pea-soup. It came from the Lion's Holt spring, and flowed through pipes down the High street in a subterranean passage, and the pipes were examined by opening trap doors, and men descending with a lantern; the only trap that I am aware of in High street is one in front of Mrs. Stone's, jeweller, adjoining the kerb.

On a fire occurring in the city, at night, the bell was rung at the Guildhall, where a small engine provided by the Chamber was kept in the hall. Three and four horses with cradles on their backs, each carrying a seam of wood, sixteen faggots, the foremost being led by a man, the others by a rope fastened to each other. The London Inn square filled by mail and other coaches. Sedan chairs waiting for parties coming from a ball or concert, extending from the Public Rooms to Mr. Mark Rowe's, East Gate; each man carried a large lamp in front, and being very quick in their step, they were like "Will o’ the wisps" darting about of a dark night. Hackney coaches were not used until 1823, when Humphrey Stark started four pair-horse ones, capable of carrying six or eight people.

Servant girls accompanying their mistresses from an evening party, walking in front and carrying a large glass lantern lit with two mould candles, held about four inches from the ground. I remember on one occasion a gentleman asked the favour of a light for his cigar, which was granted; in return, he quietly deposited a rocket. They had not proceeded far when the lantern was blown to pieces. This was previous to the nightly watch; the latter was begun on the 4th January, 1830. Southernhay at this time was the great promenade on Sunday evenings, much to the annoyance of the residents, but now scarcely a person to be seen.

Russell's wagons partly unloaded at the top of South street, it not being wide enough to get to their warehouse, the upper part of this street widened in 1830. About twenty lime carts in succession coming from the kilns up South and down North streets. Have seen three horses pulling a wagon up Stepcote hill. Also mail and other coaches passing through West street, Coombe street, Palace street, Cathedral yard, and up and down Martin street. Lamplighters going through the streets with their torches to light the oil lamps, dropping the fire as they walked. The only framework for the above left I believe is in front of each house in Colleton crescent, which was built in 1802. Gas was first used in the streets of Exeter, July, 1817. I have been informed that Messrs. Bodley Brothers' foundry in the Commercial road was the first lit with gas. Gas from the new company burnt in Exeter, 22nd April, 1837.

Bakers' men with a long board or tray on their head to fetch and carry dinners, also delivering bread to housekeepers, carrying an immense basket on their shoulders capable of holding twenty to thirty loaves, with a stick about eighteen inches long, and a knife for the purpose of cutting a notch to remember the different deliveries; its appearance when filled very like a miniature ladder for spiders to crawl up. At the Post Office unclaimed letters put up in the window for identification. Half doors or gates at shops in the High street with a bell attached, which were used as lounges by the proprietors, when not engaged with customers. Many shops without glass; Mr. Clapp, ironmonger, Fore street, now Mr. Wreford's, draper, was the first tradesman to have in his shop front the large pieces of plate glass, having one on each side about three feet square, and such was the novelty and wonderment then, that hundreds of people went to see it.

Sermons preached at the various churches once in the year on Sundays for the support of the charity schools, boxes being held at the doors by parishioners, with four boys and four girls constantly repeating the words, "Pray, pray, remember the charity children, pray, pray," for which each received threepence. At most churches a board was put up in the porch, with the words painted on it, "Please take off your pattens,” painted on it.

Northernhay Fifty Years Since and Now.–About the former period a greater number of large trees stood on this spot than at present. In 1612 it was levelled and 200 trees planted, so that we may presume the large ones remaining are about 200 years' growth. It was a very rough and rugged piece of ground known by the familiar name of "Norney." The ground was covered with small stones and gravel, many large roots of the trees running in all directions on the surface. It was a resort for boys after school hours Two of the principal attractions were the posts and slopes, the former numbering about twenty, and four feet high, to prevent carriages crossing. These were in a line with the entrance to Mrs. Carr's residence, across to the house occupied by Councillor Tonkin. The great feat to be accomplished by the juveniles was to jump over these posts in succession. The slopes, there being no shrubs then, were a series of places for sliding down, much to the advantage of tailors and shoemakers.

The greatest number of people to be seen there was during the assizes, when they assembled by hundreds for the purpose of seeing the prisoners taken to and fro, about eight of them, at a time, chained, and wearing heavy gyves, guarded by four javelin men, carrying long staffs–spear-headed. There were only two paths leading to the gaol, the principal one directly behind Mr. Tonkins with a wicket gate, which was unhung during the Assizes to allow the prisoners to pass more freely. This was also done at the outlet gate over the brook bridge. The other path was at the other end, but so dirty, being a deposit for rubbish, it was almost impassable. There was an entrance to Mr. Ford's Nursery, now North road. Northernhay in those days was a resort for tradesmen who met about six o'clock in the morning for about two hours' exercise, and to discuss the information read to them the previous evening at the hotel or tavern they were in the habit of frequenting. Not then, as now, a daily paper on the breakfast table; only three weekly ones at sixpence each, viz: Woolmer's Gazette, Trewman’s Flying Post, and The Alfred. Now we can boast of four weeklies, three dailies, and occasionally second and third editions. In the season boys used it for football, and many a roll down the slopes, almost break neck work, to prevent the ball from floating down the brook, the water at times being sufficiently deep for bathing, which the writer of this has seen. Also an assemblage of boys a month previous to "possessioning " day for "parish fighting," and many earnest battles have been fought there. It was also used for drilling the recruits of the Militia. Northernhay place was an open space, the city walls being perceivable. The shoe fair was held in the front, commencing at the Subscription rooms. This building was opened in October 1820, with a musical festival. Previously the site was let for exhibitions, horsemanships, &c. In December, the same year, the first harmonic concert was held. The other entrance to Northernhay was up between old stately trees commencing near the city prison. I stated in a previous letter there was no entrance from Queen street; just above the present lodge was a fruit shop, with a cottage behind, built against the town wall. In 1830 the walk was improved, laid out, and additional trees planted, previous storms having uprooted many, and in levelling the surface the roots being interfered with, it was considered advisable for safety to fell more. With respect to Northernhay at the present time, 1876, now so well kept in order under the care of Baker and Woosley, gardeners and lodge keepers, I leave the citizens to form their own opinions. Visitors say what a beautiful spot; almost a park like appearance, and a great boon to have such a resort with such pretty views within three minutes' walk from the centre of the city, which I quite endorse; and when the Horticultural Society hold their exhibitions there, and are favoured with fine weather, it is quite picturesque. This Society held their first exhibition at the Subscription Rooms, July 30th, 1829.

The Castle Yard and Session House for county business have been greatly improved, there being originally only one roundabout path to the city walls, no steps as now. From the end of this wall there is a splendid view, extending from the extreme right of Haldon to the four firs on Woodbury Common, also Exmouth. On a fine day you can distinctly see vessels and boats sailing up and down the Channel. There is besides a good overlook of the city, with the whole length view of the Cathedral. I have witnessed many exciting scenes in the yard, particularly at the time of a contest for the county representation, commencing with the nomination, as many as ten to twelve thousand persons assembled, some of them uproariously inclined. Again on the polling days, when all voters from all parts of the county were required to record their votes at the various booths erected in the yard. Also during the Assizes, when witnesses, &c., amounting to several hundred persons were waiting to be called, the number of causes and prisoners being many more than now. I have known seventy-two causes entered, and more than a hundred prisoners for trial; in July 1826 they occupied ten days. The yard was used for drilling the Militia, their guardroom and stores being there; and regiments passing through Exeter would deposit their most valuable baggage within the walls. The first Devon Agricultural Show was held in this yard.

Rougemont, part of the Castle, was formerly occupied by the late Edmund Granger, Esq., wine merchant, senior partner in the firm now carried on by Messrs. Sanders and Snow. In 1802 many citizens supported him as a candidate for Parliamentary honours, but he was not successful, the result being Buller, 786; Baring, 637; Granger, 444. This residence is now occupied by Mrs. Gard, the much respected widow of the late E. S. Gard, Esq., some years M.P. for Exeter. On his entering into possession of the domain, Mr. Gard spared no expense in adding to its original picturesque beauty, grottos, rockeries, embankments, and paths. By the kindness of Mrs. Gard the grounds are now open daily, from ten to four o'clock. Those who have not seen them can scarcely realise such pretty gardens and grounds within the walls of the city; they are kept in such good order and taste under the management of Mr. Sclater, the head gardener; the higher walk is exceedingly nice, being about the level of the Cathedral roof; the view from the tower is also very pretty, but from the growth of the surrounding trees, not quite so extensive as years since.

Sundays in Exeter Fifty Years Since

At half -past six in the morning the boom from the 12,500lbs. clock bell at the Cathedral was heard; for the first quarter of an hour a single toll, then ten minutes double, and five minutes the small nine o'clock bell, previous to the prayers in the "Lady Chapel." At eight o'clock the different parish bells would toll for a short time to announce there would be service; if not, it was not done. The same process was gone through after the morning service was over, as occasionally out of the seventeen parish churches open, from illness or other causes, a clergyman could not be obtained to do the duty. In the Close a man went round to inform the residents who was to be the preacher at the Cathedral.

At ten o'clock the staff of the Militia would assemble in the Castle Yard, headed by their fifes and drums; they marched through the streets to the Cathedral, the north tower door being opened for them. Prayers commenced at half-past ten. Many people would go to hear the chants previous to going to their own churches, and the inner gates not being closed until the second lesson, parties would go round to see the monuments, &c. The nave being open, people were constantly moving about. The original seating and pulpit had not then been removed; when taken away the carved pulpit was presented to the parish of St. James.

The afternoon service commenced at three o'clock; a great number of people remained in the nave, who were designated "Anthemites," because they would leave the church directly after the anthem, and the noise and scuffling of the feet was a great annoyance for some minutes. To avoid this, about eighteen years since, the nave was fitted up for the afternoon service, Chancellor Harington presenting the chairs.

After the various morning services were over, Northernhay was the promenade, and there the citizens would have a "turn or two," previous to dinner time. All the churches were open in the afternoon. Besides the two for "Bodleian Lectures," there were four open in the evening, supported by subscriptions and voluntary attendance of clergymen. A list of their arrangements for the year was printed in the form of a sheet almanac. The churches being lit with candles gave to them a very sombre appearance. After the evening services the great promenade was on Southernhay, for about two hours, much to the annoyance of the residents, the noise of walking up and down being very great.

Apprentices and servants in the leading establishments were required to attend church at least once on a Sunday. When no places were provided for them they sat on lap seats in the aisles. At this time housekeepers could boast of real servants. On a Sunday they were seen going to church with a Prayer Book wrapped in a clean white pocket handkerchief, neat cotton or stuff dress, no flounces or frills, neat net cap, and bonnet, pattern similar to a black coal scuttle, and nearly as strong; neither feathers, flowers, or veils. On a wet day they provided themselves with a good-sized "gingham," sufficiently large enough for three or four persons; also high pattens, and in the church porch might be seen this notice painted up–''Please take off your pattens."

Above I mentioned the 12,500lbs. Peter or clock bell. Formerly, when hung, it was rung by twenty-four. men; it had double wheels and two ropes. The eleven bells in the south tower weigh about 30,452lbs., I believe the largest and heaviest peal in the kingdom. In the same yard St. Petrock's peal is the lightest. I also mentioned the tolling of the bells for half-an-hour. Subsequently the time was altered to a later hour; it was considered that a quarter of an hour's tolling would be sufficient. On informing the man of the alteration, he said it was impossible, "having done it so many years it is impossible to be done in the time, that is the orders." I presume he did not, on his first attempt, find it a very difficult undertaking.

I will endeavour to describe the most frequented and favourite walks within a radius of four miles of the city on Sunday evenings during the summer months. The reader must take into consideration that the period is nearly thirty years previous to the supply of facilities for going to so many places by railway. Heavitree was considered the most quiet and respectable–the walk extending to the bridge. Those wishing to go a greater distance branched off to the right or left, to enjoy the lovely lanes so characteristic of this locality. The village at that time had the larger houses occupied by families on their return from India. This being the direct road to London, about twenty-four coaches passed through it daily. Below the turnpike was a row of houses called Middle row. In 1829 the turnpike was removed to Liverydole, and the road widened.

The Marypole-head road (which was cut in 1814, latterly named Pennsylvania) was an attractive walk, for its beautiful and extensive scenery at Prospect gate, overlooking Pynes, with its surrounding grounds and plantations; also the silvery stream of the Exe for miles. The higher ground behind affords almost a panoramic view; on a clear day Honiton is discernible. From this the walks were extended to either Stoke, Rewe, Poltimore, Pinhoe, &c. Stoke hill being, very steep it was not so much frequented. From afield on the summit you get the most extensive, and perhaps the finest view in the county, embracing parts of the four western counties.

Blackboy was the coach road to Bristol, Bath, Cheltenham, &c., and it was much frequented to enjoy the walk across the Nine Path Fields to Heavitree and Topsham roads; in 1830 the walk was closed, a path made outside, and the road widened. The grounds of Polsloe House, formed one of the fields, near there, I believe, the last bull-baiting was held adjoining the city. The Cowley road, which is the prettiest out of Exeter, was a favourite of artizans, the "public" being a great attraction for its home brewed beer. After rest and refreshment, the people would return over Mary-pole head, or viâ Exwick, crossing over Cowley Bridge, which was opened, after being rebuilt, in 1814. Another pretty and frequented walk, which the present generation can scarcely remember, was from the Bonhay to Duryard Oil Mills, by the side of the Exe, and through pathfields, now the station and rail road. On Sunday mornings hundreds of men and boys were to be seen bathing on each side of Head weir.

The fields from the old boat house and lime kilns adjoining the Quay leading to Salmon pool and Countess weir were also much appreciated and frequented. The road to Topsham having a footpath the whole distance; family circles would walk down to tea, "and to inhale the sea breeze." The return walk was very enjoyable but for those who could not accomplish the double journey, Lock's four-wheel car, with cloth curtains, was waiting to convey them home. Lock having a horse he did not like to hurry, the walkers generally had to wait his arrival at the Valiant Soldier corner. At this period Topsham was a busy and flourishing place; respectable families took lodgings there in the season as is now done at the various watering places.

At this time we had a succession of cavalry regiments stationed at the barracks, whose bands played for two hours in front of the officers' quarters on Sunday evenings, which attracted a large concourse of people. The barracks are in the parish of St. David. During the incumbency of now the Rev. Chancellor Harington, he held service at nine o'clock on Sunday mornings in the Riding School, many citizens attending. Alluding to soldiers, during the assizes no military men were allowed in the streets wearing uniform; they were either confined within the Barrack yard, or separate troops were sent to the surrounding towns, such as Tiverton, Cullompton, Honiton, &c.

One boon the citizens could not enjoy at the foregoing era is "Mount Dinham," which, for its pure air, views and walks, can scarcely be equalled in the neighbourhood. The writer remembers when the site, now covered with neat cottages, was either waste ground or rough gardens. Our late respected citizen and philanthropist, Mr. John Dinham, thought the ground could be better occupied; he consulted some friends, and, with their advice and that of the late Dr. Phillpotts, Bishop of Exeter, his wishes were accomplished. Great credit is due to Mr. Chanter, gardener, for the neatness with which the grounds are kept.

Of the walks on the other side of the Exe, from Haven Banks to the Double Locks was the most frequented, from its pretty scenery and refreshing air, being about two miles by the side of the canal. The majority out of the many hundreds were mostly the younger members of the community. At the quay about fifteen to twenty vessels might be seen, and beyond were boats moving to and fro, the double locks being the extent of the pull. The inn was the rendezvous for refreshment, and was well patronised, every room, the skittle alley, and forms in the field being engaged by the weary ones. Those wishing a longer walk would return home either viâ Countess Weir, Alphington, or Topsham.

Those who wished for a good constitutional would sometimes take the walk to Waddlesdown, Whitstone, it being an ascent from the Okehampton turnpike gate; Red hills is the first rise to encounter. Originally it was the coach road to Falmouth; from its steepness, the turnpike trustees allowed extra horses to assist in pulling vehicles up the hill without additional toll, a painted fixed board directing where to "put on, take off." In a field on the summit a beautiful view is seen of the Somerset hills. On a fine clear day the Wellington monument is discernible; still ascending you arrive at Whitstone Church, the tower being whitewashed is a land-mark from the sea. Behind is Waddlesdown; the sea and land views are very extensive, twenty-one country parish towers can be counted, exclusive of Exeter; the return walk furnishes a diversity of scenery.

The walk to Exwick through the fields was also very pretty. Previous to the railway we had a view of the city on leaving Okehampton street, the entrance commencing with the Rackfield at Flower Pot. The view extended as far as Duryard, over a succession of fields, the river flowing between. Just opposite the Bonhay at Flower Pot was a long dyke, a resort for boys fishing for minnows, which had been cut with the idea of making a canal to Crediton. Arriving at Exwick some took the route to Cowley-bridge, others up the lane to Cleave, where about mid-way you have a pretty sight of the river with the city in the distance, sketches of which I have seen taken by our local artist, Mr. Spreat. On the opposite hill, near Cleave House, is Messrs. Vanstone's nursery, and the view from their summer house is very charming. The privilege of seeing it many times has been mine, and no doubt any citizen would get a similar reception, a welcome from the proprietors.

The walk to Ide was also very attractive through Cowick fields. On the top of the steep field, the other side of the road, is a view of the city, also down the vale to Topsham. On the reverse side may be had a pretty peep over the beautiful vale of Ide. In those days the village was recommended for invalids by the doctors. On arriving at the entrance, pedestrians would branch off to the various pretty lanes.

The most frequented walk for those who had children, it being almost level (no perambulators then), was Alphington to the Cross, thence by the lanes to Exwick. In the field behind St. Thomas Asylum were to be seen many people conversing with the inmates from their day exercising room. On one occasion I heard them singing the Hallelujah chorus; the man who sang the air would have been an acquisition to any musical society. What a contrast in the mode of treatment of those unfortunates then and now; to wit, the beautiful Wonford building, its arrangements, pretty grounds, and the liberty.

This gives but a very limited account of our beautiful walks around the city. The writer in bygone days having at various times enjoyed and appreciated them all. I have heard from tourists and visitors, who are competent to give their opinions, say that Exeter and its surroundings is as clean and pretty a place as they ever visited. As to its supplies the best of commodities are obtainable in the markets, granted not quite so reasonable as previous to the railway transit. Shops that can supply the very best of materials; also physicians and surgeons of great experience and sound judgment, for which Exeter was always noted. I have known parties who had gone to London for advice of the supposed cleverest men in the kingdom; who had been informed by the Docter consulted they need not have come there, as he "knew of no place with more skilful practitioners." I am pleased to say its reputation is still kept up by pupils of the above, and others now practising in the city. As to lawyers we have a full complement, some gifted with lens who can read Acts of Parliament suitable to clients. With all these advantages the "Ever Faithful" is well cared for.

In the foregoing I alluded to the pretty village of Ide. In the same parish, about one mile from it, is Fordlands, in by gone days a pleasant resort for musical and tea parties, for its rustic scenery, pleasant bowers, and numerous enveloped summer houses. The friendly feeling that existed between professionals and amateurs made it easy to organize a musical society, and the effect to listeners was charming, the performers stationing themselves so as to be heard and not seen. The three oldest amateur instrumentalists surviving are Mr. Ramson, Mr. Banfill, and Dr. Ridgway. Also at the above place is a large pond, which, from its exposed situation, was in the season the first resort of gentlemen for skating. Two, amongst others, they being experts, were the respected owner, J, E. C. Walkey, Esq., and Winslow Jones, Esq.

Fifth of November Reminiscences

The writer for fifty-six years, with, I believe, only two exceptions, has had ocular demonstration of the anniversary of the Fifth of November in the Cathedral yard. I will endeavour to describe my first recollections of it, and some subsequent years. Many evenings previous to the Fifth hundreds of juveniles would assemble, letting off squibs, crackers, &c. On the fourth the Cathedral bells were rung in commemoration of the landing of the Prince of Orange, which acted as a zest for the following day. About four o'clock in the morning the inhabitants were signalled for the evening's amusement by the report of cannons from various quarters of the city. After breakfast guys of various descriptions were carried about, asking for coin, the appeal being,

" Please to remember the Fifth of November.

Up with the ladder, down with the rope,

Please give a penny to burn the old pope."

The larger guys were habited in old clothes, not forgetting the corduroys, and suspended to one arm was a lantern, to the other a bundle of matches, sharp pointed with brimstone ends. Juveniles had smaller guys, the size of a doll, with which they visited parents' friends, to try who would be the most generous on this burning event. During the day, fireworks were constantly let off, and unless pressed by emergency, horses and carriages did not come into the city from fear of accidents. After the afternoon service at the Cathedral the preparation for the bonfire commenced in the yard, nearly opposite the residence now occupied by J. Hayward, Esq.

It was not enclosed then as now, the boundary of the yard being wooden posts and long thick rails; the bonfires when at the highest have burnt the branches of the large trees. Occasionally effigies were burnt; there being no police force or licensing acts then, the fun was kept up until about two in the morning, with a succession of tar-barrels, rockets, &c., &c. Special constables were sworn in to prevent the barrels from leaving the yard; but generally at some of the exits the youngsters succeeded, and then kicked them through the streets until they fell to pieces. (No doubt on reading this, you will think "where were the police?" Our night guards at that time were a few old "Dogberrys" traversing the streets; their dress a very thick coat with about a dozen tapering capes, lighted lantern, and rattle, giving warning to housebreakers by calling out the hour of the night. The nightly watch was organised in 1830; the four staff bearers acting as the day police).

At this time more fancy fireworks were let off than now. I have seen various fancy pieces traversing on a wire from the Globe Hotel to the Cathedral; scarcely a fancy dress was then worn, only a protection for the face, such as a fencing wire mask, &c.

In subsequent years, during the excitement of the Reform and Municipal Bills, Free Trade, Corn Laws, and Surplice agitation, effigies were capitally got up to represent prominent parties. The largest procession I ever saw extended from the Royal Clarence Hotel to Broadgate; the advance being a representation of Gog and Magog, followed by various dressed persons; then priests, friars, monks, nuns, &c., behind an immense wire cage, about seven feet high, containing a figure in full canonicals, a very discordant band accompanying. On another occasion soldiers from the barracks were stationed in the Bishop's gardens; another year some mounted cavalry were ordered out and stationed in front of the Guildhall, but the rockets were so numerously thrown about the horses could not be kept quiet; they retired to barracks awaiting orders, but were not required.

Some years since it was thought by some parties this anniversary should not be held in the Cathedral yard, but not a unanimous feeling, as some in authority enjoyed the fun, and freely gave their cash towards the bonfire. (The writer of this for many years received the subscriptions). The Mayor on this evening usually gave an oyster supper in the Council Chamber to officials and friends.

In 1853 the Mayor, E. S. Cornish, Esq., thought if possible he would prevent the celebration by not allowing the wood to be taken into the yard, and at many pounds expense he purchased a variety of fire works to be let off in the field near the Alexandra Nurseries, Paris Street. (About five o'clock an explosion of fireworks occurred at Mr. Osborne's, High street, which created a consternation.) A large crowd assembled to witness the pyrotechnists' display, which went off very satisfactorily, but at eight o'clock hand bells were sounded and a cry raised, “To the Yard, to the Yard," which was soon obeyed. About nine fire was applied to a shed where now is Carlton terrace, North road; this was done to withdraw some of the police and firemen from the yard, and the wood was then brought in by arrangement, by hundreds of willing hands; a fire was soon made, and with the aid of turpentine the yard was quickly lighted up, followed by brilliant coloured fires, throwing a hue over the faces of an enthusiastic but not a mischievous crowd.

A feeling prevailed with many of the authorities that if this anniversary were kept out of the yard it would be impossible to prevent rockets, &c., from being let off in all parts of the city, which would be exceedingly dangerous. Since my recollection, 1820, no fire of premises has occurred in the yard from it. As to the way the anniversary is now kept up our local papers have already given a good description.

Previous to my recollection there was a determination one year to prevent wood being taken into the yard for the bonfire. My father informed me the youthful citizens were so determined on the occasion that the posts and rails were cut down and burnt.

Reminiscences of Christmas Fifty Years Since

The choirs of various churches would go round the parishes on Christmas-eve, stopping at the principal houses to sing an appropriate anthem or a Christmas carol, this over, the loudest tenor voice would call out the names of the nearest residents, such as 'Good morning Mr. Snugg, good morning Mrs. Snugg, and all the young Snuggs, past three o'clock; a very cold and frosty morning;' or the snow is falling fast. The young reader must understand, in those days, the winters were much more severe than now; skating almost a certainty, and snow falling at various times for two or three days, and remaining on the ground for several weeks. I have seen birds lying dead on the ground for want of food. My father informed me that the snow had been so high on Haldon that men were sent from Exeter to cut a passage through it, to allow the mails to pass. Returning to the perambulation, the choir consisted of singers, accompanied by a fiddle or two, bass viol, a clarinet or flute. The above named instruments were used in churches that had no organ. On the rounds some parties were waiting the arrival of the choir with a cup of tea, coffee, or soup, which was very acceptable. A good efficient choir would be accompanied by lots of "camp followers" who rendered assistance by carrying chairs, lanterns, &c., also by holding the music in front of the performers. About six o'clock the various rounds were finished; at half-past six the Cathedral bell tolled out, the front doors were opened, and then there was a great rush of people, about half filling the nave, many in a state that indicated that they were not members of the temperance society, being very noisy, and smoking. This conduct not meeting the approval of the Dean and Chapter they ceased to have the nave opened some years since. At seven o'clock the organist played the Old Hundredth Psalm on the " Great Organ," the chorister boys singing from the " Minstrels' Gallery," which was lit up with candles. The morning and afternoon services were thinly attended, but a great many outsiders went to hear the anthem. The parish churches were well attended in the morning, afternoon scarcely anyone present, evening three or four churches open, and these very thinly attended. So universal was the social and family gathering, that the High street in the evening had the appearance of a deserted town, with respect to people moving about.

Now for family meetings on Christmas days. "Grandfather" would, if possible, invite the whole of his family descendants, including grandchildren, to partake of what the festive table produced, which generally speaking, consisted of a goose, beef, and a large smoked ham, &c., followed by a huge fig pudding covered with white sugar to correspond with the snow clad roofs. Beer was not forgotten, good home brewed October twelve months was tapped by the landlords for their customers. Dinner over, chairs were placed in a semicircle around the blazing fire, children sitting in front or on the knee, and the topic of conversation would be old family times, absent friends and passing events until about five o'clock, when the old ladies' delight, a good cup of tea with a little bit of green in it, was announced. After this ceremony, which occupied about an hour, cards were introduced; the family game, twopence half-penny loo was played until supper-time, nine o'clock. The coin was put in the snuffer-tray; a cup or small basin called the "pitcher" was also placed in the centre of the table, the holder of the ace of trumps depositing a half-penny in it, the amount being divided amongst the younger branches. After supper, again sitting round the ashen faggot fire, healths and toasts were proposed, and good old seasonable and patriotic songs sang until about midnight. Then came the trying time of departure, with respect to children, some sleepy, others crying. Before leaving, a hint was given that the ham would be nice and solid about eleven the following day. "Oh yes; I understand, you are all welcome. Now mind I shall expect you." This led to another family day's enjoyment.

There was another prominent incident in these parties, the maternal head-dress, net caps, the polls about three inches high, lace trimmings, interspersed with various coloured ribbons. This piece of gear having to last the season, the different milliners' tastes were well scrutinized. Hair fronts, too, were worn across the forehead, according to taste either plain or dangling curls, nicely put out of hand by the barber. This paraphernalia was pinned up in a white handkerchief and carried with great care through the streets which was an intimation that "I am going to a party." No doubt the reader will think why this show off, but the people had not the convenience of cabs then as now. Sedan chairs were the only conveyances available. In 1823, Humphrey Stark started four pair-horse hackney coaches; now we have about one hundred cabs and flies. That assistants in shops might have an opportunity of spending a few hours with their friends on Christmas eve, shutters were put up about six o'clock, continuing a little later each evening until New Year's eve.

Another event not noticed now was Old Christmas eve, on the 5th January, when confectioners tried to excel each other in their art. The streets were crowded with parents and children visiting the various shops; the outsiders were more numerous by hundreds than buyers. Another Christmas pastime, but one scarcely known to the present generation, was the "mummers," who would visit private houses, and ask permission to perform before the assembled company. The different characters were generally well got up, and the parts very creditably performed. For this a liberal collection was made, and some of the good things on the table presented to the players. It was customary at some of the inns at this season to invite the "landlord's” customers and friends to supper, and have a bowl of punch, &c. I will give one instance of it which was at the Barnstaple Inn, North street, kept by Mr. Ireland. After supper the guests, numbering from thirty to forty, would, if convenient, adjourn to the large kitchen, which was nicely decorated. The chairman and vice with their yards of clay occupied seats on each side of the fire place, with a huge ashen faggot burning; on this occasion they were named "Gog and Magog," it being in the "pattern parish" of St. David's. Mr. Carpenter, the organist, with the elder portion of the choir, added to the musical department by singing glees, catches, duets, and songs; other parties filling up the interval with toasts, songs, or recitations, and a very pleasant enjoyable evening was spent. Those who had no domestic ties would remain until the small hours, when the kind host and hostess would bring around tea or coffee. Such were the incidents of bygone days, and to those whose memory goes back to that old time, no doubt the foregoing remarks will bring to mind many happy hours spent, many sincere friends, and many a good old citizens.

St. Thomas or Easter Fair Fifty Years Since

Easter Monday the wardens were chosen for the year; the bells ringing at intervals enlivened the visitors at this great annual pleasure fair; after dinner crowds of people with their children from all parts of the city were seen wending their way to it. The various standings for sale of toys, confectionery, fruits, oysters, cockles, &c. were erected in the street, commencing at the Pit to the Church. No doubt many readers are not aware of the situation of the then Pit; it was the site of the present railway station, and was about four feet below the roadway consisting of an inn, blacksmith's shop, and a dwelling house, almost adjoining Beaufort House, which was originally the County Gaol. Opposite, in front of the debtor's ward, were booths for theatrical performances, shows, swings, boats, merry-go-rounds, &c. There being no police regulations, footballs were freely used in the streets, much to the annoyance of the stand keepers, the rickety ones sometimes having to succumb.

If a fine day it was an animated sight in the three large fields leading to Cowick; dotted all over with the rising generation playing rounders, kicking football, &c., whilst drop-the-handkerchief, kiss-in-the-ring, &c., were numerously patronised in the secluded corners.

On the approach of evening the streets were the promenade, and the "publics" were not forgotten, one or two fiddlers being engaged in each house for a dance; every available room was occupied–bedrooms being unhung for the occasion. These houses were considered free to all comers, and this made a constant rushing up and down stairs. Light was obtained from long sixteens in tin sockets nailed to the wall; occasionally at a given signal all lights were put out, and I will leave to the reader's imagination the confusion in such a mixed assembly.

Theatres, shows, and booths were fully patronised, the "elite" visiting "Horde's Theatre," prices of admission, dress boxes 3d., pit 2d., gallery 1d., the former were allowed the privilege of taking in a gallon or half a gallon of beer, and long pipes. Any actor suffering from over exertion was presented with a cup of beer from some one of the audience. There was no prompter and many parts were forgotten, but the omissions were readily dictated by some of the spectators. Thanks were returned by saying, "We wish to give every satisfaction to such a genteel and appreciating assemblage." I have known the above company remain occasionally for three or four weeks, having I presume no engagement at the Opera, Covent Garden, or Drury Lane. The fair lasted for three days. It was also an occasion for housekeepers to invite their friends to tea and have a look at the passing crowd.

The only dreaded authority by the youngsters was David Norton, the parish constable, who was a daring and energetic man.

Above I alluded to the Debtors' ward. In January, 1855, under a fresh arrangement, about thirty debtors were removed in vans to the County Gaol. Mr. T. Burch was the last Governor.

The Mermaid Yard

In reply to “Citizen” in your former issue, I may say that my first recollection of the Mermaid yard is fifty years since. It was a large open space, with sheds and stable on each side for the accommodation of the numerous carriers that came from all parts of the county. Mr. T. Bury resided in the large brick-built house now standing. At a later period a brewery was built in the yard by Mr. Brutton. On the different railways being opened the yard was almost deserted. I believe it was Mr. Cotton who read a very interesting account of the olden times and doings in the city, at a soirée held at the Royal Albert Museum, a few months since. He alluded to the Mermaid yard as being the resort of the gentry, cavaliers. &c., &c.

With respect to the bells and monuments in St. George's Church, I understood they were removed to the amalgamated parish church of St. John. As to the bread riots, I remember three or four, but have data of one only, which occurred in 1847, in the mayoralty of W. D. Moore, Esq. Then, having, with several hundred more citizens, volunteered as special constable, I have some recollection of the excitement. The authorities and citizens were taken by surprise, not having heard of any particular discontent. The rising emanated from the “West Quarter,” by women and boys, who went in a body to the Corn Market. The shock was so great to the nerves of the unoffending farmers that they made their exit as speedily as possible, not waiting to receive orders, pay money, or be paid. This consternation naturally created a panic in the outer market, which resulted in hurried packing and a clearance in about ten minutes. About four o’clock the proceedings reached the Higher Market. A similar scramble took place; goods and commodities soon disappeared, the country people, in their conveyances, leaving the city at a racing pace. During the evening the mob, which increased, visited the bakers’ shop, broke the glass and helped themselves to bread, &c., &c. No soldiers were quartered here. The necessary steps were taken to obtain the assistance of the 1st Devon Yeomanry Cavalry. About eight o’clock just 100 assembled in the barracks, from thence they rode through the High and Fore streets with drawn swords–the bulk of the people moving before them. During the progress they were hooted and hissed, and many attempts were made to unhorse them by men putting their shoulders under the foot. During the night nothing very serious occurred, and they retired to the barracks to await further orders, but they were not required.

There being serious riots and incendiarism in many parts of the country, rumours were afloat that a visit would be paid to the city on a certain night. The Mayor organised the specials for various districts; his head-quarters were at the Guildhall, with a staff of captains, lieutenants, &c., who communicated with the various divisions at regular periods. Our division, numbering about forty, was at the Barnstaple Inn. Two specials with relays were sent to the North turnpike gates to give notice of any approaching mob. The same arrangement was made at the different entrances to the city. There being no disturbance neither the soldiers nor civilians were called out. At six o’clock we were ordered to the Lower Market, still on duty, which was very quiet. After an ocular demonstration of the art of disjointing a great many porkers, breakfast was announced as ready in the Corn Exchange room. This agreeable ceremony over, and the vendors in the Market not being likely to be molested, we were discharged with orders to be ready when called on, retaining our staff or mop stick as our official emblem. Thus ended our exploits of an anticipated riot. The Mayor was escorted from the hall to this residence, Mary-pole road, by the Guildhall division, under the captaincy of F. Hirtzel, Esq.

Fullers, Weavers, &c.

The last Thursday in August was a gala day many years since for the Tuckers, Weavers, and Shearmen, of the City, called “nutting day;" it was kept by them as a grand holiday. After lunch at the Windmill Inn, Holloway street (which was kept by Mr. Field, and the hostelry being noted for its good home-brewed was well patronised by the craft), they went to some of the woods in the neighbourhood nutting, returning home to dinner at the above-named inn. The room was decorated, flags hung out of the windows, and young trees were planted in front of the house. The late Chas. Bowring, Esq., usually occupying the chair. After the repast the loyal toasts, &c., were proposed, and well responded to; then the senior member was called on for their standing song. The chorus was–

And this is law I will maintain

Until my dying day, sir;

That whatever king shall reign,

I'll drink my gallon a day, sir.

The emblem of the Fullers worn was a green apron with white serge strings; the Dyers, a blue apron and red serge strings.

The above inn was frequently “dropp’d into” by the late Mr. Edmund Kean; also by the fisherman and women from Topsham, and a row of about half a dozen carts was constantly seen standing outside, the number engaged in that traffic being about fifteen, now I believe reduced to one solitary donkey cart.

Exeter Races Fifty Years Since

At this period, it was the only noted one in the county and was held on Haldon, about six miles from the city. I have heard a remark of its being the second best racing course in the kingdom. The two days’ races were on Wednesday and Thursday, about the second week in August, and were supported by gentlemen from all parts of the county. The racing was good and frequently horses had to run three heats for the prize. The assemblage was very numerous, from four-in-hands to donkey carts, and pedestrians by thousands, coming from the surrounding towns and villages.

The subscriptions came in very freely, besides cups and plate given by the county and city Members; also an Exeter tradesmen’s plate. The stewards were gentlemen of the county. An ordinary was held at the New London Inn on both days, and was well attended. Previous to the races, the inside square and around the door of the above hotel was like a miniature “Tattersall’s,” of racing and betting men.

In Exeter it was considered one of the holidays of the year. From seven to ten o’clock the walkers were seen wending their way to Haldon. In Alphington street and road were waggons, carts, and every description of vehicle, fitted up for the occasion, ready to take parties to the down, at the rate of one shilling each person; donkey conveyance sixpence and if return ninepence, with the stipulation they would not be more than three hours on the road.

From ten to twelve a succession of four-in-hands, carriages, light vehicles, tandems, curricles; the latter was a conveyance for two persons. the pole being supported by raised ornamental brass, with a neat rod across the back of the horses, having very gaily dressed outriders; and in addition to the local equipages, the Cavalry Officers, occupying the barracks, had many very handsome drags, pair-horse traps, beautiful gigs, &c. Such was the attraction at these races, that not a horse or vehicle available for the occasion would be left in the city. At mid-day, scarcely a person was to be seen in the High street.

Soon after four, men, women, and children, were seen wending their way to see the return home; and from the summit of Fore street hill to Alphington cross there was a moving mass of people; and continuing so until about nine o’clock. Tradesmen’s wives who had a front sitting-room in Fore or High streets, would invite their friends to tea, and have a sight of the return parties.

About five o’clock the first intimation of the race being over, was by the Hon. Newton Fellowes returning with his four-in-hand thorough-bred dark bays, going at a good pace; he always drove without bearing-reins. Soon after, followed a succession of carriages; and horsemen in groups of from. twelve to twenty, riding almost at racing pace. By reason of the reckless driving, and the vehicles being so numerous, there were generally several accidents, especially down the steep Haldon hill. The occupants of the heavy four-wheelers were constantly arriving in the city, from eight to eleven o’clock.

On the following day many private matches were made up and run for. Many years since, these races ceased to be supported as formerly. Gentlemen supporting races in their own locality; therefore subscriptions fell off, also the attendance. '

The following, with many others, gave their support to the above races:–Hon. Newton Fellowes, Sir L. Palk, Sir J. Buller, Sir W. Carew, Sir J. Duntze, Gen. Gilbert, Arundell Harris, Esq., H. Porter, Esq – Chichester, Esq., –Worth, Esq., Wm. Ley, Esq. – Wreford, Esq., &c. The last named bred and trained'a large number of thorough-breds. John Day and his son resided at Kennford, and trained horses for gentlemen in the neighbourhood; The late William Ley, Esq., of Woodlands, was their great patron. H. M. Ford, Esq., was clerk of the course for many years

The Stocks Under the Centre Arch of the Guildhall About 1830

A citizen passing one day recognized an acquaintance not having leg bail. “Halloa, Ben, what’s up with you?” “Only a little spree last night, I’m just working out five shillings worth for two hours, I never earned so much, as half-a-crown an hour before.“Well old fellow, when you get your understandings all right, come into the Turk’s Head, I’ll stand a quart.” “I’ll be there, my buck of thunder.” Roars of laughter from the crowd that were around. Occasionally a member of the feminine sex had to undergo the same degrading position, much to the amusement and jests of a gazing crowd, the salutations were numerous, such a Molly, Betty, &c., “She arnt there for taking too much tea,” “Look at her boxey ancles,” or, “What a beautiful lark heel she has, any body can see she belongs to the aristocracy, being decorated with a garter.”

Such were the scenes in by gone days. Happily the stocks, with the pillory, and flogging at the cart’s tail through the streets, are things of the past.